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  • THE VINTAGE HOUSE AT ALDEBURGH IN SUFFOLK, ENGLAND

    The Vintage House in the seaside town of Aldeburgh on the east coast of England is a holiday cottage which still has the original furnishings bought for the house in 1928. Always on the quest for a genuine immersive historical experience, I spent a night there in February to see if it lived up to expectations. The coastal town of Aldeburgh in Suffolk was once a thriving Tudor port, much of which has now disappeared into the sea. The town is now better known for its musical, artistic and literary associations, its huge blue flag shingle beach, and as a holiday location. Tourists visit to enjoy a traditional seaside holiday, complete with pastel coloured villas lining the promenade, award winning fish and chip shops, ice creams and to watch the sunsets over the North Sea. It is a good base for those looking for a cultural holiday too. The composer Benjamin Britten lived here and he started up the Aldeburgh Festival of Music and the Arts, which has taken place every June since 1948. The house that he shared with tenor Peter Pears is open to the public, as is his studio and the festival hall he created at nearby Snape Maltings. The church where they are buried has an extensive graveyard, a John Piper window and is open to the public. Moot Hall, a 16th century building, stands near the sea and now houses the Aldeburgh Museum, which is packed full of artefacts and information for the curious. A Martello tower stands near the sea, the most northerly of a chain of squat concrete towers built in the 19th century to keep Napoleon and his armies out. An Art Deco cinema with a mock Tudor exterior provides entertainment, and only a few minutes drive away is Orford Castle, the 12th century keep, described as one of the most remarkable keeps in England. Sutton Hoo, the famous burial site of an Anglo Saxon king, is only a thirty minute drive away. The Vintage House is on Saxmundham Road, which is the main road into Aldeburgh, making it easy to find. Set back behind a large front garden, parking is on the road outside. We parked precariously on a verge and headed inside. Entering the house, we couldn’t wait to explore. With darkly painted wooden doors, wooden floorboards and buttercup yellow walls throughout, it is clear that a lot of attention had gone into keeping the house as historically accurate as possible. The dining room, with its burnt orange tiled fireplace, wireless and bookshelf filled with old books, had a round wooden table covered in an embroidered cloth, topped with a bottle of red wine, glasses and some biscuits. It was a delightful welcome for both of us. We headed next into the kitchen, which still had its original cast iron range, as well as a proper pantry, something I have always secretly coveted. Concessions were made to modern life here, but most of the gadgets were hidden out of sight in the pantry, and the overwhelming impression was one of a wood and stone flagged floor, a large white butler’s sink and a view through the back door to the large, green back garden. The sitting room was equally delightful, with a polished wooden sideboard, a large tiled fireplace and brass candlesticks and a traditional sofa and chairs. Upstairs were four rooms; a double and a twin, both with wooden floorboards, wooden furniture and the late evening sun streaming in through the windows. A large bathroom with roll top bath, traditional WC and sink was next to a tiny room called The Newsom Room. Filled with memorabilia from the past; old black and white photographs, books, games and ornaments, it gives a glimpse into the lives of the original owners of the house. The house was in an excellent location as it only took us five minutes to walk down the road to reach a choice of two supermarkets, where we stocked up on food, logs and matches. We then spent a lovely evening in. I just had to have a bath in the huge tub, reading one of the vintage books and drinking the red wine, before we settled down in front of the fire, ignoring the TV that was on offer and just listening to the crackle of the logs in the decreasing light, relishing the sense of isolation from the modern world. The house felt very genuine and authentic, from the décor and polished, dark furniture to the creaking wooden floorboards and old fashioned light switches. The large windows let in plenty of light which streamed in, even in February. We both had a very comfortable night and were genuinely sad to leave the following day and confront the real world again. It had felt like spending time in a 1920s bubble, and is a memory I will always cherish. STAYING AT THE VINTAGE HOUSE IN ALDEBURGH You can book a stay at The Vintage House through Best of Suffolk

  • VICTORIA PARK, SALISBURY

    The oldest and most traditional park in Salisbury, Victoria Park is in the north of the city and has a wide variety of activities on offer. Opened in 1887 to celebrate Queen Victoria's Jubilee, the park was a result of the Public Parks Movement which swept Britain in the 1830s. £1550 was raised by public subscription to fund this open space for the residents, to give them a green space to stroll, exercise and get some fresh air. In its prime it had several structures including a bandstand and an ornate drinking fountain, although only traces of these still remain. In 1943, boxing legend Joe Louis fought in an exhibition match in a boxing ring constructed for the occasion in the park, and later on during World War II, Glen Miller played here to entertain the American troops stationed on Salisbury Plain before the D-Day landings. The park now has a football pitch, basketball court, boules club, a kids play park and several tennis courts. Victoria Park Community Tennis has six courts, four of which are floodlit, a pavilion with showers and a changing area, and a refreshment area. They run coaching courses for all ages, as well as operating a 'pay and play' system where courts can be booked online. Every Saturday morning between 11am - 12.30pm, the courts are free to use for all ages. There is an active group of gardening volunteers, the Friends of Victoria Park, who keep the park looking its best, and the park is also the base for The Pantry Partnership, a social enterprise group who use surplus food to provide great meals at pop up cafes, snack shacks and for events. The same view in 1904 and 2021 Victoria Park is an excellent place to take the kids in Autumn, as the formal gardens are planted with plenty of horse-chestnut trees, so young kids can enjoy the thrill of hunting for conkers. Next to Victoria Park is the Salisbury Secret Spitfires Memorial which is well worth visiting, and just beyond that you will find Old Sarum, both providing fascinating and historical walks. Visiting Victoria Park How to get to Victoria Park Postcode: SP1 3NE what3words: sulk.buck.ending Public Transport: There are several buses which will take you from the city centre to the park, which leave every few minutes and only have a five minute journey time, (get off at Queensberry Road stop). Parking: If you do drive, there is a free car park at what3words: budget.salads.debit. Visiting Salisbury? Our Salisbury City Guide has information on where to stay, places to visit, walks to do, kids activities and lots more.

  • 18+ D-DAY SITES TO VISIT IN ENGLAND

    When we think of D-Day, we all have mental images of troops waiting aboard landing craft at sea, landing on the beaches of Normandy under heavy gun fire, of the paratroopers who were the advance wave, or of the military cemeteries and their rows of pure white headstones and crosses that herald the tragic ending for so many. D-Day is synonymous for most of us with northern France and the start of the Allies changing the tide of the war. However, what about where they left from? D-Day was months in the planning and preparations, all of which took place in the UK. The troops, vehicles, equipment didn’t just amass without organisation, it all had to be assembled, equipment constructed, troops had to be trained, detailed military plans were made, and all of it had to be hidden from the enemy. The south of England was taken over in the preparation for D-Day, and traces of this have been left behind all over the country. A BRIEF OUTLINE OF D-DAY Operation Overlord, the name given to the establishment of creating a second front on the continent, was agreed upon in 1943 by the Allied commanders. Unable to take place until the necessary equipment had been built and the troops trained and assembled, large scale deception operations were established to encourage the Germans to think that an invasion would take place in the Pas de Calais region of France (Operation Bodyguard), Norway (Operation Fortitude) or Bordeaux (Operation Ironside). These left the Germans very unprepared for the invasion when it eventually came. The actual invasion was delayed by a day due to bad weather, but the invasion was launched on the 6th June on the orders of Eisenhower, when thousands of ships filled the seas, gliders filled the skies and hundreds of paratroopers landed behind the beaches of Normandy. Operation Neptune, as the day was called, was the biggest seaborne invasion in history. British, Canadian and American troops all landed on the beaches nicknamed Juno, Omaha, Sword, Gold and Utah in what became known as ‘The Longest Day’. There was fierce fighting and a great many deaths, but the Allies slowly forced their way into France and over the coming months, liberated Paris and ended the war. For a very exciting and hour by hour account of the invasion, ‘The Longest Day’ written in 1959 by Cornelius Ryan is a must read. 1. THE D-DAY STORY, HAMPSHIRE Recently revamped after receiving a large grant, the D-Day story is a Hampshire museum dedicated to Operation Overlord. Located on Clarence Esplanade, Portsmouth, from where so many troops departed, it features the experiences of everyone involved in the D-Day landings, not just the military, telling the story in three parts – preparation, the Battle of Normandy and its legacy. The museum also houses the Overlord Embroidery, 83 metres of hand stitched panels telling the story of the D-Day landings, which was created in 1974 after five years of painstaking work. There are plenty of hands on interactive displays, and exhibits include Monty’s famous beret, a beach armoured recovery vehicle, spy equipment and a huge variety of paraphernalia used in the landings. Plans are underway to include an actual D-Day landing craft, due to be displayed near the museum later this year. The museum runs a regular series of events including autism friendly viewings, touch tours, spy challenges and much more. Official Website >> 2. SOUTHWICK HOUSE, HAMPSHIRE Southwick House is a Grade II listed manor house, just five miles north of Portsmouth in Hampshire. It was from here that D-Day was launched, being the advance command post for SHAEF, the Supreme Headquarters Allied Expeditionary Force. General Eisenhower, Admiral Ramsay and General Montgomery were all based here. It was in the library of Southwick that Eisenhower made the decision to delay the operation by 24 hours due to the inclement weather, and it was from here that the entire operation was orchestrated until early September 1944, when operations were moved to France. The giant plywood map, used to plot the positions of the ships during Operation Neptune, the naval element of the invasion, was fortunately retained at the house and put back to its original D-Day positions. The house is still owned by the military, with the Defence School of Policing and Guarding now using the building as their headquarters. Visits can only be made by appointment, by emailing DSPG-HQ-Information@mod.uk The village of Southwick, which was entirely taken over by Allied Command, holds a celebration each year to remember its involvement in D-Day. Called the Southwick Revival and held annually on the closest weekend to D-Day, it is a fantastic weekend and includes exhibitions as well as visits to the map room. 3. HMS BELFAST, LONDON HMS Belfast is the only British ship and one of only 3 remaining ships from the bombardment fleet of D-Day, the other two being in the USA. She was the flagship for Bombardment Force E, supporting the troops landing at Gold and Juno beaches and was the second ship to open fire on the German defences, taking out the gun battery at Marefontaine. In total she spent 33 days supporting the landings and fired over 4,000 six inch and 1,000 four inch shells. Now permanently anchored on the Thames as a museum ship, it is a wonderful place to visit to see what life was like on board during D-Day and for the rest of her career until she was decommissioned in 1963. You can explore the whole ship from the engine rooms in the bowels to the guns on the decks, clambering up and down ladders to find the ships kitchens, laundry rooms, heads, living quarters, sick bay and even sit in the captain's chair. There is a re-enactment of being in a gun turret and firing the shells, where you watch a short film of what was happening, hear the guns, get covered in smoke and smell the cordite. Read more about a visit to HMS Belfast >> 4. SLAPTON SANDS, DEVON Photograph © Nilfanion Slapton Sands, on the south coast of Devon, is a long golden stretch of sandy beach. Currently a popular place for tourists, 75 years ago it was the setting for Exercise Tiger, a rehearsal for D-Day and the scene of one of the worst disasters of WWII. The beach was chosen for its resemblance to the beaches of Normandy, particularly Utah beach which was to be stormed by American forces. Locals were evacuated from the area and American troops arrived in their thousands to conduct the exercise in strictest secrecy. The week long exercise culminated in tragedy on the final day when miscommunication and a nearby German submarine fleet caused the death of over 700 soldiers. The incident was hushed up until after D-Day, and remains the greatest loss of American life during the war in a single incident, other than Pearl Harbour. Today the disaster is commemorated with a stone monument and a Sherman tank raised from the seabed. Slapton Sands now has a nature reserve with a freshwater lake, and the whole stretch of coastline has been designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Official Website >> 5. CHURCHILL WAR ROOMS, LONDON Underneath the streets of Westminster is the underground bunker from where Churchill and his cabinet plotted the events of the war that led to the Allied victory, including the D-Day landings. Adapted from furniture store rooms and reinforced, the bunker grew to six acres in total before the end of the war in 1945. A warren of corridors, bedrooms, kitchens, typing pools and more, staff housed down here barely saw the light of day for the duration. The rooms have been left exactly as they were the day the lights were switched off in 1945 and you can visit the cabinet room which is laid out for a meeting, and the map room, where huge maps cover every wall and which was Churchill’s favourite room. You can also see the room which was disguised as Churchill’s loo, but was in fact a small room with a transatlantic telephone in, where he could plan D-Day with Roosevelt without anyone knowing what was going on. The war rooms also have a fascinating and comprehensive museum on Churchill’s life. Official Website >> 6. BLETCHLEY PARK, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE An old 19th century manor house and estate in Buckinghamshire, this was the nerve centre of the code breakers during the war. People such as Alan Turing, Gordon Welchman and Hugh Alexander were based here when they cracked the code from the Enigma machines and shortened the length of the war by several years. ‘Colossus’, the worlds first computer, was developed here to help crack the codes. What took place here remained a secret until the 1970’s, and the huts the code breakers used were scheduled for demolition until 1991 when a trust was formed to preserve the site. Now a tourist attraction which also includes the National Museum of Computing and the National Radio Centre, this is an incredible place to visit and well worth a trip. Official Website >> 7. IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM DUXFORD, CAMBRIDGESHIRE Britain’s largest museum of aviation, Duxford in Cambridgeshire was originally used as an RAF airfield during WWI, then played a prominent role in the Battle of Britain in 1941. Used by the American air force fighter units to support bombing raids in Germany, it was from here that American fighter aircraft flew to support the D-Day landings. The site is now of great importance to British aviation history, with 31 listed buildings, many of which are still in use, and houses permanent displays as well as the American Air Museum. Exhibits include a Spitfire, Lancaster and Tiger Moth, with regular flying displays and events take place every year. Official Website >> 8. BEAULIEU, HAMPSHIRE Beaulieu Palace is an estate on the Beaulieu River on the south coast of Hampshire. Originally built as the gatehouse to Beaulieu Abbey in 1204, the Palace changed hands and was extensively extended over the years until it became the major tourist attraction that it is today. Famous for housing the National Motor Museum, the Abbey, Palace, Top Gear World, impressive grounds and gardens and a monorail, what is overlooked is the tucked away Secret Army Exhibition. During WWII, Beaulieu was home to a training school for the SOE, the Special Operations Executive, where 3000 agents were trained in the ‘dark arts of warfare’ such as burglary, forgery, sabotage and silent killing, before running secret missions behind enemy lines. Sent into France before D-Day, they supported the operation with their acts of sabotage and resistance, usually at great personal cost. It is a wonderful exhibition showing the tools of the spy trade with fascinating gadgets and devices on display. Read more about visiting Beaulieu >> 9. TYNEHAM, DORSET Tyneham is a small village on the Jurassic coast of Dorset. Just before Christmas in 1943, the residents received notification that they were all to be evacuated from their homes, as the village and surrounding lands were being requisitioned by the War Office to use for training troops in preparation for D-Day. 225 people left their homes, leaving a poignant note on the door of the church, “Please treat the church and houses with care; we have given up our homes where many of us lived for generations to help win the war to keep men free. We shall return one day and thank you for treating the village kindly.” The expectation was that the village would be returned to its residents as soon as the war was over. However, in 1948 the MOD put a compulsory purchase order on the land, and has owned it ever since, using it to practise manoeuvres and shelling. The village has fallen into total disrepair and is now known as a ‘ghost village’. The old manor house has been completely demolished, but the church and school have been renovated and the remaining cottages are very ramshackle and decrepit. It is a fascinating place to visit, to see a village frozen in time. It is open most weekends and over the school summer holidays, always check the website before setting out though as the land is still used regularly by the MOD. Read more about visiting Tyneham; historical background, how to get there and what to expect >> 10. STUDLAND, DORSET Six weeks before D-Day, troops gathered in Studland Bay on the south coast of Dorset, for a practise run of the invasion, called Operation Smash, in front of Churchill, Eisenhower and King George VI. Studland was chosen as its beaches were so similar to the ones in France that would be the focus of the invasion. The dignitaries gathered in Fort Henry, a purpose built observation concrete bunker and watched the largest live ammunition exercise of the war unfold. On 4th April 1944, British infantry made amphibious landings while fighter-bomber planes and cruisers and destroyers all pounded the heathland behind. It was the first time that the new DD tanks were used (Duplex Drive tanks designed to float on water). However, a change in the swell of the water meant that seven of these tanks sank to the seabed, with the loss of six lives. These tanks still remain on the sea bed. Despite the setback, it did mean that lessons were learnt that then saved more lives on D-Day itself. The whole area of Studland beach is littered with relics of WWII, with pill boxes, gun emplacements, dragons teeth and rusted metal still to be found in the area. Fort Henry is still there too, open and accessible to all. Official Website >> 11. IMBER, WILTSHIRE Before WWII, the War Office had purchased great swathes of land on Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire, including much of the village of Imber, to create the largest military training ground in the UK. This meant that the residents of Imber were mostly tenants and so in 1943, the army requisitioned their homes and forced them all to leave the village, giving them just six weeks’ notice. The area was used as a training ground for American troops rehearsing for D-Day. Although they had expected to be allowed to return after the war, the villagers were never allowed back. The village is now another ‘ghost village’ and is currently used for intensive urban warfare training. Many of the original buildings have fallen into such disrepair that the army have built new, basic houses to help them continue with their training. All that remains in good order is the church, which was renovated in 2008 and still opens a few times a year. Access to the site is becoming more and more limited with each year, as the MOD are concerned that visitors are ignoring all of the signs to keep away from the danger zones and putting themselves at great risk, as the buildings are not stable and there is the risk of unexploded ordnance around the site. Read about a visit to Imber village >> 12. LEPE, HAMPSHIRE Lepe is a small village on the south coast of Hampshire in the New Forest. Used as a secret manufacturing point, the breakwaters which formed part of the Mulberry Harbours used in the D-Day landing were made here. Mulberry Harbours were critical to the success of the invasion, providing a deep water harbour from which used to protect supply ships and provide port facilities to offload troops and equipment. It was also used as an embarkation point for troops and equipment leaving for Normandy. Hundreds of troops, vehicles and ammunitions were hidden in the wooded area and narrow roads around Lepe and nearby Exbury House. PLUTO, the pipeline under the ocean, which transported the fuel to France and beyond for use in the invasion, left the mainland here at Lepe. The area now has a beautiful sandy beach, cliffs covered in pine trees and wildflower meadows, which form part of Lepe Country Park. There are also plenty of relics left over from its role in D-Day, and the area still has the concrete floors of the site buildings, construction platforms, beach hardening mats, bollards, slipways and gun emplacements. Read more about a visit to Lepe Beach >> 13. WILTON HOUSE, WILTSHIRE Wilton House, a large estate with an impressive history that goes back to 871AD, is located just outside Salisbury in Wiltshire. Home to the Earls of Pembroke for over 400 years, the manor house was requisitioned in 1940 by Southern Command until 1949. Much of the advance planning for D-Day took place here, primarily in the famous Double Cube room, which became the top secret Operations Room, where Churchill, Eisenhower and Montgomery were regular visitors. (Eisenhower's flag, which was hung at Wilton House while he was in residence, can be found on display in Salisbury Cathedral.) Wilton House and gardens are open to visitors for much of the year and are a lovely place to visit. The house is a wonderful example of Palladian architecture; the grounds are beautiful and contain a Japanese water garden as well as an adventure playground for children. The estate also holds regular exhibitions, and regular events are held here ever year, including antique fairs, Easter egg hunts, charity runs and various supercar events. Read more about Wilton House >> 14. ROYAL SIGNALS MUSEUM, DORSET Blandford Camp in Dorset is the current home of the Royal Corps of Signals, a combat army corps responsible for providing communications in the field. Known for being the first into battle and the last out, the corps played an active role throughout WWII, including D-Day. Before D-Day, they took part in Operation Fortitude, a deception plan to deceive the Germans into believing that the invasion would take place near Calais instead. They were so successful that Hitler wouldn’t remove his troops from Calais until several weeks after D-Day, thinking the Normandy invasion was the deception. Royal Signals were also amongst the first troops to land in France on D-Day, were critical in taking Pegasus Bridge and in one crucial event, one signals corporal was awarded the Military Medal for laying and maintaining the field telephone under enemy fire across the Caen Canal Bridge. The museum has an exhibition focusing on these events, as well as a lot more about the history of the corps. Official Website >> 15. WEYMOUTH AND PORTLAND, DORSET The towns of Weymouth and nearby Portland, on the Jurassic coast of Dorset, were host to over 500,00 troops and 150,00 vehicles in the final year of the war. They were major embarkations point for troops leaving on D-Day, particularly for the American troops headed for Omaha beach. Weymouth has a memorial to the troops on its seafront, and holds an annual veteran’s festival. A new D-Day museum has recently opened on the Isle of Portland, Castletown D-Day Centre, an ‘authentic recreation of a busy wartime dockyard of men and equipment being loaded onto landing ships’, an immersive museum which also contains a restored Sherman tank, a spitfire, guns equipment and uniform. Official Website >> 16. RAF BENTLEY PRIORY, LONDON A non-flying airforce base, RAF Bentley Priory was the headquarters of Fighter Command during WWII, particularly the Battle of Britain in 1940. Used as a location to plan the airborne D-Day landings, it was in an underground bunker here that Churchill, Eisenhower and King George VI spent D-Day itself, watching the events unfold. An 18th century stately home, the site was bought by the RAF in 1926 and remained with the RAF until 2008 when the site was developed for housing. However, part of the building was retained as a museum and can be visited today, with the grounds now a nature reserve. The museum focuses on the Battle of Britain rather than D-Day, and the bunker is sadly long gone, but the D-Day connection is not neglected and the site is an interesting and informative one to visit. Official Website >> 17. DOVER CASTLE The tunnels under Dover Castle had played a key role in the evacuation of the BEF from Dunkirk in 1940, and they were put to use again for the D-Day landings, when they were part of Operation Fortitude. This operation was designed to fool the Germans into believing that an Allied invasion would come from Dover to Calais, rather than the south coast to Normandy. As well as the dummy ships, tanks and soldiers which were put on display to be seen by the enemy aircraft, teams of British and Canadians worked around the clock in the tunnels, sending fake coded radio messages all over the UK. The operation was a huge success, as even two months after D-Day, the Germans believed that the main attack would be in Calais, so they kept many of their troops there, rather than move them to Normandy. Dover Castle is owned by English Heritage, and it makes for a full day out with a medieval palace, Great Tower, World War I command post, underground hospital, a Roma lighthouse and an Anglo-Saxon church. Official Website > 18. RAF UXBRIDGE The Battle of Britain Bunker in Uxbridge, near London, was the primary command post which coordinated the Battle of Britain in 1941. It also had an integral role in the air command for D-Day, coordinating fighter operations. The map which is on display in the command centre deep underground, is the map used for the D-Day operations, although the rest of the command room is laid out as it was in 1941. The bunker has an excellent museum attached, with some fascinating exhibits. There is plenty for kids to do, with detailed explanations of the Dowding System used to control the battle in the skies, and an exhibition on its role in D-Day. Read about a visit to the Battle of Britain Bunker >>

  • SALISBURY CATHEDRAL TOWER TOUR AT CHRISTMAS

    The Salisbury Cathedral Tower Tour takes visitors up into the roof spaces of this extraordinary Medieval church, where you even get the opportunity to stand at the base of the iconic spire and look up into it. The tours run throughout the year, but every Christmas they run extra special festive tours. Tower tours run daily throughout the year for all visitors, but every year during the festive season, Salisbury Cathedral runs ‘Twilight Tower Tours’. These tend to start at around 3.15pm and are timed so that you are at the top of the tower when it is dusk, and you can admire the stunning view of the Christmas lights of Salisbury twinkling far down below you. They end with a shared cream tea in the refectory, and finish in time for you to attend evensong if wished, or visit the nearby Christmas market. The tower tour groups are small, no more than 12 people and they always have a good mix of children and adults. The tour guides are enthusiastic and highly knowledgeable volunteers, who seem to love having children in their groups and who interact with them in such a way that the children thoroughly enjoy it as well as learn a great deal without even trying. Each guide will emphasize different aspects of the cathedrals long history, they each have favourite anecdotes and stories to tell, and will often tailor these to suit the age group of their audience. Judging by Trip Advisor reviews of tower tours, the enjoyment of the tour is universal as they receive high marks across the board from all age groups. I have taken my family on a Twilight Tower Tour for three years in a row now and it is becoming part of our festive traditions. The cathedral itself is always beautifully decorated for Christmas, with a huge yet tasteful Christmas tree, candles around the font and festive flower displays. The warm lighting and atmosphere just add to the festive mood. HISTORICAL BACKGROUD OF SALISBURY CATHEDRAL What is fascinating about Salisbury Cathedral is that it was completed in just 38 years (1220-1258), and so is all in the same architectural style of Early English Gothic. It was in fact the third cathedral in Salisbury. The first was built in 1092 at Old Sarum, but was damaged in a storm not long after consecration. It was rebuilt in stone in the same location, but as the site of Old Sarum was too small, very cold and due to ongoing conflict between the clergy and military, the decision was taken to re-site the cathedral elsewhere. As every local knows, the legend is that an arrow was fired by the Bishop from Old Sarum and it was agreed that wherever it landed, that is where the new cathedral would be built. The arrow hit a deer who ran for some distance before dying, and where he died is the site of the current cathedral. The real reason is rather more prosaic and due to land ownership and availability at the time, but it’s the arrow story that everyone remembers. The tower and spire were not part of the original plans and for some years the cathedral did not have either. These were completed by 1320 and were troublesome from the start, adding an extra 6,500 tonnes of weight to a building that was just not designed to carry that weight (and that has foundations only 4 feet deep!). The tower tour gives a fascinating insight into the changes they had to make to keep the spire on the building, and being able to see inside it gives a far greater depth of knowledge than just admiring from below ever can. It has been the tallest spire in England since the 16th century, as other spires in other cathedrals collapsed over the years. It stands at 123 metres and as you go further up the tower, you see just how that has been achieved and what an amazing accomplishment it is. The first stage of the tour takes you up stone spiral staircase to the first floor with impressive and expansive views over the nave and the interior of the cathedral. Behind you, close enough to touch, is a beautiful stained glass window constructed from medieval glass from the Chapter House and elsewhere in the cathedral. Windows were gradually removed post reformation as images of saints and angels were offensive to Protestant beliefs. This window is an early example of the move to bring stained glass back into religious buildings – as it depicts heraldic shields rather than religious symbolism. You can also see the slight curvature of the walls holding up the tower at the far end of the nave, as well as the buttresses used to fortify the pillars when the spire was added. From here you reach the under roof space, with all of its wooden beams supporting the roof. Our guide took great pleasure is showing us into this area with the lights down low, then turned them on with a magnificent flourish, just to hear our gasps of amazement. You are presented with row upon row of wooden beams, all seemingly perfectly aligned and with the aromatic scent of old wood. Most of these beams are from the original 13th century construction, and with the cross beams being 40ft long, the children in the tour group were fascinated as the guide pointed out that those oaks would have been alive at the time of the Norman invasion of 1066. He also explained how the builders had to find trees that were the exact shape and curvature that were needed to fit a particular space, and how the trees were sourced from miles around, some even coming from Dublin. The skills used to join these beams together are nothing short of remarkable. You walk the length of this roof space feeling truly awed by the skills required to build it, and enable it to still be standing today. You can also look down on the false ceiling that is painted to look like stone from below but is in fact just slaked lime, and was put in to hide all of the beams above. It is around this point that some of the impressive graffiti pops up, and trying to read it all and work out the dates is fascinating. It continues to adorn the walls throughout the tour, as well as some of the glass panes which were part of a fundraising drive in the 1990s. Some of the designs on these glass panes are very ornate and provide a detailed and intricate contrast to the huge and imposing blocks of limestone and the cavernous spaces of the tower. Some examples of the graffiti. The first one says – ‘William Jerred fell from this height on the 29th day of March 1864’. (He survived, his coat catching on the part of the cathedral below leaving him hanging there until he could be rescued.) At the base of the actual tower itself you see a lot more of the adaptations that were necessary to keep it upright. The tower caused trouble right from the start and needed upkeep and repairs early on. Over the years there have been several adaptations and amendments to the design, just to try to keep everything upright. The guide gives a fascinating account of the methods they used, with the most impressive being the metal supports and struts added after a survey of the cathedral by Christopher Wren in 1668, only two years after the Black Death, when, as our guide pointed out, he had plenty of other far more important buildings to build, yet still managed to find the time to save the Salisbury spire. It was he who discovered that the spire was leaning 27 inches off centre and after he put in the supports, it hasn’t budged an inch in the 350 years since. It is up here as well that you can see the bells, which often strike as you are standing next to them (the tour guide does offer ear defenders for those with sensitive hearing, but I’ve never seen anyone who needed them). The cathedral is one of only 3 in the country that doesn’t have a ring of bells. These were originally housed separately in a bell tower on the edge of the cathedral close that was damaged by fighting in the streets during the civil war and later demolished, so what it does have is 4 bells that are struck with a hammer, as they are far too heavy to allow them to ring freely in that tower. Up some very narrow and steep wooden stairs again takes you to the base of the spire and here you can look upwards and marvel at what you see – the original internal wooden scaffolding still in place, which only touches the external walls at the bottom and which goes all the way to the top. The original 13th century wheel is also here, that was used to winch the stone blocks to the top. You can’t go up any further from here as it is for the stone masons only, but you can go outside on to three of the sides of the base of the spire (the fourth one is occupied by peregrine falcons who nest here every year – they even have their own livestream. The views on all sides are remarkable and as it is twilight by the time you get up there, the lights are on across town. The Cathedral Close itself looks lovely with its imposing and beautiful buildings – as our guide said the priests were all meant to be celibate and had no families, but still felt the need to live in mansions. I was grateful they had as it does mean that the Close is stunning to look at. As we stood up there, admiring the Christmas lights and watching the streams of traffic on Salisbury’s infamous ring road, an enormous full moon appeared as the clouds cleared and the tour group stood in a row gazing in awe and running out of superlatives to describe what we could see. We visited all three sides and the effect was the same. The journey back down is an easy one and after you have been awarded your ‘tower tour’ badges you are guided to the refectory for a generous cream tea with the rest of your group. When finished, we left to admire the spire from outside (the cathedral always looks amazing lit up in the dark) and then off to the Christmas market for mulled wine and bratwurst. It’s a very festive yet educational experience and one I cannot recommend highly enough as a way to engage children, even the most disinterested teenager, in a truly impressive historical and monumental site. SALISBURY CATHEDRAL TOWER TOUR DETAILS I always book far in advance for the twilight tours as they sell out quite quickly. Tours are also run daily throughout the rest of the year if you are visiting at other times – the tour is still a fabulous experience at any time. Twilight tours cost £17.50 per adult, £12.50 per child or £48.00 for a family of 2+3 and include a cream tea. For the rest of the year, tickets are £13.50 per adult, £8.50 for children and £33 for a family, with no cream tea included in the price. Wear sensible shoes and warm clothing. There are free lockers at the base of the stairs to put bags and rucksacks in as you really won’t want to carry them. The tour lasts approximately 90 – 105 minutes. No under 7s or anyone under the height of 1.2m. I would also say it’s not suitable for people who are unsteady on their feet, or not good in confined spaces. Book your Tower Tour here >> Visiting Salisbury? Our Salisbury City Guide is packed with information about places to visit, locally owned places to stay, eat and shop, day trips you can take from the region, sporting activities, things to do with kids and plenty more.

  • SALISBURY GUILDHALL

    Salisbury Guildhall, in the Market Square, is the local council building. Built in the 18th century and home to the Oak Court, a replica of the Old Bailey, the building is often open for visitors to pop in and have a quick look around, to learn more about Salisbury’s municipal history. Sometimes there are free guided tours which include the jail cells and other areas not normally accessible to the public. Salisbury Guildhall was built in the 18th century, although there has been a building on the site since the early 14th century. The original was built in the early 1300s and was known as The Bishop’s Guildhall, and it was from here that the Bishops would exercise their feudal rights of criminal and civil justice. In 1585, the Merchant’s Guild built a new headquarters nearby, calling it the Council House. After a mayoral banquet in November 1780, the Council House burnt down. The second Earl of Radnor offered to pay for the construction of a new one, but stipulated that it must be in the centre of the Market Square. His offer was politely refused until he agreed to a different location. After some discussion over which direction the building should face, which the Earl again lost; construction could finally go ahead. The opportunity was taken to demolish the Bishop’s Guildhall at the same time; it was in a terrible condition as the Bishop didn’t have the money to pay for its upkeep. The Bishop agreed willingly to the plans, and managed to convince the town corporation that they must include a gaol, allow space to hold the Bishop’s Court, the Courts of Dean and Chapter and the sessions for the Close, with the Bishop having no responsibility for the upkeep of the buildings. Payment to the city Gaoler had to be done by the Corporation but only with the Bishop’s approval. In exchange, the Bishop gave up his role as Clerk of the Market, handing it over the city. In 1795 an Act of Parliament was passed to enable these changes, the Bishop’s Guildhall was demolished and the new Guildhall was built on its site. Designed by Sir Robert Taylor, it was completed in 1795. Additions and alterations were made over the years, with a grand jury room added in 1829. The grand entrance to the building has a sweeping staircase, underneath which is a fireplace which is the sole survivor of the 1780 fire in the Merchant’s Guild. The banqueting hall is the principal room of the Guildhall and has hosted many important guests over the years, including King George III, Lord Nelson, Princess Diana and the current Queen. The walls are covered with an extensive picture collection, mostly of royalty, benefactors and Salisbury’s Mayors. There are some impressive chandeliers which were once candle powered and which date from 1797. Ladies of the Queen Mary Needlework Guild making uniforms for the military at a sewing party in the Banqueting Hall during World War I, and the same view of the room today. The Crown Court dealt with all court matters from 1795 – 2010. Now cleared of all of its court room furniture and tiered seating, the room has been re-designed to allow it to be used for Council functions. The trap door in the floor is now sealed but it was through here that the accused would ascend some very narrow stairs to the dock, to appear before the judge. Many would then have to return back down those stairs to the tiny gaol cells which are below. In January 1831, 339 cases from the Agricultural Swing Riots, a widespread revolt against harsh conditions and increased mechanisation of agriculture, were heard here, which resulted in 150 people being transported to Tasmania and two death sentences, which were later reprieved. It was also here that William Wright was sentenced to death, the last execution in nearby Fisherton Gaol in 1855. He had killed his common-law wife when she said she was going to leave him for another man, cutting her neck with a razor. He then turned the razor upon himself, cutting his throat but surviving. Newspaper reports say that when he was hanged, his wound re-opened, making it a particularly grisly sight. The tour guide in the centre of this picture is standing on the trap door that led to the jail cells. The Three Maces are still used for ceremonial occasions. The room now contains some of Salisbury’s silver collection, including three George II silver maces. These were commissioned in 1749 and are unique in England. The largest mace is the second biggest in the country. There is also the basting spoon made for the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria in 1897, used for basting an ox which was roasted in the Market Square. It is also here that you can see the Victoria Cross of Thomas Adlam. This is the highest and most prestigious award for gallantry in the face of the enemy that can be awarded to a soldier. He lived in 2 Farley Road in Salisbury and received the medal for his actions in 1916 in the Somme, when he ‘rushed from shell hole to shell hole under heavy fire … was wounded in the leg but nevertheless, … captured the position and killed the [enemy] occupants.’ Read more about Tom Adlam and how he got the VC here >> The Oak Court is modelled on the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales, otherwise known as The Old Bailey. This court is exactly how you imagine court rooms to be based on every courtroom drama you may have seen on TV. With oak furniture throughout, a grand judge’s chair and an elevated dock for the accused, this is very impressive room. Used until 2010 as a Magistrate’s Court, it is now host to meetings and marriage ceremonies. In 1827, Justice Park sentenced 28 people to death in this room; one of them just for the crime of stealing half a crown. All but three were eventually reprieved. He gave one 18 year old lad life transportation for stealing a pocket handkerchief. In 1830, in the Salisbury Spring Assizes, Justice Gazalee addressed the Grand Jury saying that none of the crimes appeared to be ‘marked with circumstances of great moral turpitude.’ Nevertheless, of 130 prisoners he sentenced 29 to death, life transportation for five, 14 years for five, seven years for 11 and hard labour for the rest. The jail cells are tiny and only have space for one small and uncomfortable looking seat. The cells are below the main court rooms. There were originally two tiers of cells, one for men and one for women, but the ones for women have now been converted into council offices. What remains is the lower level of cells, four tiny rooms which lead off the lower tunnels. Used until 2000, they are no longer in use as they contravene all sorts of rules and regulations for the treatment of prisoners. They are said to be haunted and people have reported hearing the jangling of keys and footsteps in them. VISITING SALISBURY GUILDHALL How to get to Salisbury Guildhall Postcode: SP1 1JH What3words: become.washed.purely Public Transport: There are several bus stops opposite the Guildhall Square, on Blue Boar Row. Parking: There is no parking on site, but as it is in the centre of town, it is easily accessible from all of the central car parks. When is Salisbury Guildhall open? Monday – Friday: 9am - 5pm Events for the public are often held on Saturdays How much does it cost to visit Salisbury Guildhall? Entrance is free unless you are visiting one of the events that are sometimes held. For free guided tours, keep an eye on the Salisbury Civic Society events page. Are there any facilities at Salisbury Guildhall? There are loos on site. For food and drink, there are countless cafes and restaurants in the Guildhall Square. Visiting Salisbury? Our Salisbury City Guide has all the information you will need on places to visit, where to stay, eat and shop, day trips you can take and lots more.

  • THE WITCHES' TREES OF GROVELY WOODS

    Deep in the ancient woods of Grovely are three huge beech trees, which are said to mark the burial sites of women who were killed for 'witchcraft' in the 18th century. Decorated with emblems, gifts and other assorted offerings, a visit to these trees combines local folklore with a peaceful walk in the woods. Grovely Woods is one of the largest woodlands in Wiltshire, standing on a chalk ridge near the River Wylye. It has a long history going back to the Iron Age, with both Iron Age and Roman artefacts found in the area, as well as settlements and hillforts nearby. A long Roman road runs through the woods, flanked by an avenue of beech trees and ferns, creating an atmospheric landscape for a peaceful walk. The woods were used during World War II, mainly as a storage place for bombs and ordinance, and there are concrete bunkers throughout the woods. Read about how to find two of the war bunkers >> There are several stories connected to these woods. One is that of the Burcombe Woodsman, either a poacher who was hanged from a tree as punishment for his illegal deeds, or a local artist who was accidentally shot in the woods during a deer cull. Whoever he was, the paranormalists who believe in such things, claim that he emerges from the forest with the crack of a twig. The second story is that of the witches. In 1737 there was a lethal outbreak of smallpox in the town of Wilton, killing over 130 locals. Four newcomers to the town were blamed for this contagion - the Handsel sisters who were originally from Denmark. Accused of witchcraft without any form of trial, they were taken to the woods and bludgeoned to death, their heads caved in with farming implements. They were buried apart from each other, so that they couldn't conspire against their killers after death. Four thick, gnarly beech trees appeared over their graves, whether deliberately planted or mysteriously growing is still a matter of conjecture. One of the trees has since blown down in high winds, but there are still three remaining, and they are well worth a visit. All three really stand out against their surroundings, with huge, thick trunks, knobbled branches and dark canopies. They are very distinctive amongst the tall, thin pine trees which surround them. There is one which has far more decoration than the others, with ribbons, plastic jewellery, ornaments, plastic flowers, food wrappers, keyrings: all manner of decorations either hanging from branches, pushed into the hollows of the trunk or lying around its base. Logs were arranged in a circle, with other logs there for people to sit on, in fact one time I was there, there were people having a picnic under the tree. The other two trees have less colourful offerings, with more natural items from the forest; ferns, woven twigs and stones. One of the trees is covered with a thick green moss, surrounded by an enclosure made of branches and twigs, with a small entranceway. I do not know the significance of this, but it clearly means something to modern day pagans. I far preferred the other two trees, finding them more natural and in keeping with the woodland around them. With no lurid trinkets, and away from other visitors who only seem to look at the first tree, they feel more secluded and peaceful, and a fitting memorial to the sisters who were treated so badly. All of them however are fascinating in their different ways, and it is a truly lovely place to walk. There are several blogs written by supernatural investigators who have said that they felt a presence, or touches, or heard noises, some even saying they have seen spirits there. I have never sensed such things on my many walks there and have found nothing at all creepy or sinister about the woods. How to get to the Witches Trees of Grovely Woods You can enter the woods through several different ways, but the quickest way to get to the Witches Trees is by The Hollows in Wilton. (what3words: bookmark.infuses.couches) If you are driving, do not park in the residents' spaces, you should be able to find free parking in the laybys. If using public transport, the R3 bus from Salisbury will get you the closest to The Hollows. From the Hollows, head north, walking up the wooded path until you pass a farmhouse on your left. At this point, (what3words: rocker.inch.recorders) the road forks. Take the right fork, which will take you through a hedge lined path amongst open fields, bringing you to the start of the beech lined Roman road. Walk some way down the Roman road - it is lovely, whatever the season. Leave the Roman road by turning left, at what3words: scouted.skippers.bonus and you will find the first tree. The other two are close by - I will leave you to explore and find them for yourself, as half the fun is looking for the trees which stand out from the rest. Visiting Salisbury? Our Salisbury City Guide has plenty of information on places to visit, locally owned places to stay, eat and shop, day trips you can take, sporting activities on offer and plenty more. The Witches' Trees are amongst several unusual, historical or famous trees across the UK. You can read about some of the others here >>

  • LAVENHAM GUILDHALL – AN EXCEPTIONAL MEDIEVAL BUILDING IN SUFFOLK

    This Grade I listed timber-framed building in the centre of the village of Lavenham in Suffolk, has a long and rich history. Originally one of four guildhalls in this once prosperous village, the building was subsequently used as a bridewell and poorhouse, before being acquired by the National Trust in the 1950s. The village of Lavenham in the east of England has been occupied for centuries, dating back to before the Norman invasion. The village made its mark in the Middle Ages. Granted a market charter in 1257 by Henry III, which stimulated the local economy, Lavenham soon became a focal point for traders in the thriving wool trade. By the 1390s, the export of woollen cloth overtook that of wool, particularly a blue broadcloth known as Lavenham Blue, which was dyed with woad and exported as far afield as North Africa and Russia. The town became one of the richest in the UK and its prosperity was reflected in the magnificent Medieval buildings which were built by the wealthy merchant families. The Guildhall of Corpus Christi was built in 1529, one of four guildhalls built in the village. A magnificent timber framed building with plaster infill, it is one of the best examples of a half timbered building in the country. Used for meetings by members of the guild to regulate the wool trade, they had a set of rules and principles as well as a strict hierarchy, which established a strong reputation as well as giving them huge wealth and power. By the late 16th century however, the arrival of Dutch immigrants in nearby Colchester, who began to weave a cheaper, lighter and more fashionable cloth, meant that the fortunes of Lavenham began to reverse. The Guildhall went through a series of different uses, including bridewell, pub, workhouse, almshouse, grain stores, and British Restaurant, until it was given to the National Trust in 1951, who still look after it today, as a museum and exhibition space for visitors. The National Trust has quite a job on their hands to reflect every incarnation of this magnificent building throughout its nearly 500 year history. The visit starts on the ground floor where the interior of the building is exactly as you would expect having seen the outside, and it is a joy to see. Timber framed walls and ceilings, wooden floorboards, huge brick fireplaces and narrow windows with diamond paned leaded glass windows are complemented with some heavy dark furniture, although the room is kept mainly empty so that there is little to detract from the beautiful fabric of the building. The focus here is on the wool trade, looking at individuals in the village who made their fortunes from it. One is Miles Witton who was a cloth maker and member of the guild when it was at its height and ranked 15th amongst England’s wealthiest towns, paying more in tax than the much larger towns of Lincoln and York. The Suffolk cloth trade is described as the best example in English history of mass participation in a manufacturing industry where men of all backgrounds were involved in the industry, from dyers, weavers, spinners, fullers, drapers, cloth makers and merchants. Miles Witton was a contemporary of Lavenham cloth maker Thomas Spring III, who was the wealthiest commoner in England, which shows just how much wealth was accumulated in the small village. There is plenty to look at for both adults and children, with separate information panels for both, meaning that kids can read about the aspects that interest them more. There are samples of wool to handle and even a mummified cat to look at on a light box hidden underneath a cloth; any macabre sight is always an attraction for kids. Cats have been hidden in the roofs of buildings for well over 400 years, an old folklore custom that was believed to have stopped evil spirits from entering the house. Later rooms look at the building’s role in the 17th and 18th centuries as a bridewell, which is a prison or reform school for petty offenders, imprisoned for minor crimes such as begging or being ‘idle and disorderly’. Bridewells were intended to reform the poor through hard labour and whippings, to make them useful members of society, although that does seem a rather counter productive way to go about it. There is the rather heartbreaking story of an orphan girl, Ann Baker, who was there in 1783 at the age of 12, where they had not enough straw to sleep on, not much water to drink and were not allowed outside in case they escaped. They were whipped until they bled and forced to share rooms with adult men, although the worst offenders were put in thumb screws or leg irons. Some were deported to Australia, spending months on end in chains below decks on crowded ships. Rules are hung on little wooden plaques around the room to show people just how bad life was there, and there are thumb screws and stocks to try out. The Guildhall was also used as a workhouse at the same time as it was a bridewell, employing the poverty stricken children and elderly of the area to spin hemp, flax and yarn. The timbered room has a display of spinning wheels and other tools used in the trade and details of the life of Widow Snell who ran it, looking after the 30 residents as well as her own family, keeping everyone fed and clothed. Scrolls hang on the walls to show us her finances, the meals that were served to the poor and the home made medicines which she used to treat them. There are dressing up outfits for children to try on, the rough capes and caps of the poor who lived there. In the late 1800s, Lavenham was still involved in the cloth trade, although with little of the success of previous centuries, mostly combing and spinning wool for factories in London and Norwich. Life remained a challenge for many of the villagers and the Guildhall was used as an almshouse, not just for the elderly, but for the people who struggled to eke out a living. During World War II, the Guildhall was used as a British Restaurant. These were set up by the government to sell basic meals at reasonable prices off the ration and were staffed by volunteers of the WVS. After the war, the Guildhall passed into the hands of the National Trust. The final part of the building is an exhibition about the Lavenham railway, which had been a station of the Bury St. Edmunds to Long Melford Branch line, but which fell victim to the Beeching cuts in the 1960s. The room is filled with memorabilia from its 100 years of service, including timetables, porters badges, lamps and luggage, as well as information about what is there now, the wildlife which has reclaimed the land. It is possible to do a Lavenham railway walk, but on a freezing cold February day, we weren’t tempted. There is a small back garden area outside the Guildhall, which contains prison cells and mortuary buildings. These were built in 1833 and were once part of the Guildhall when it was being used as a workhouse. The cells would have been used for the occupants who had transgressed in some way, and the mortuary for those who died on the premises and were awaiting their burial in a paupers grave. The Guildhall is an interesting place to visit, with plenty for both children and adults, but its main charm is in the building itself, which is a truly stunning example of Medieval architecture, both inside and out. The rest of the village is equally impressive as so many Medieval buildings remain, and I can imagine that in the summer months it must fill up with visitors who come to admire the colourful timber framed buildings, which lean at awkward angles and have so much charm. VISITING LAVENHAM GUILDHALL Postcode: CO10 9QZ w3w: noble.hindered.torch Opening Hours Daily 10am – 5pm Ticket Prices Adults: £8.40 Children: £4.20 Free to members of the National Trust. Facilities Gift Shop and a small tea room. There is parking in the market square or on nearby streets Lavenham Guildhall Website >>

  • INDEPENDENT PLACES TO EAT IN SALISBURY

    Salisbury may have more than its fair share of chain restaurants and fast food places, but fortunately it has some fantastic locally-owned restaurants which will give you a lot of choice of cuisines and price brackets. Restaurants/Gastro Pubs Lalahan is my favourite restaurant in Salisbury. Locally owned serving authentic Turkish food, there is a good range of dishes which are always excellently cooked, with vegetarian options as well as the traditional meat dishes you would expect. The fun interior has a ceiling of clouds and Turkish landmarks around the walls, but it is the large garden which makes it so special, with covered seating and plenty of flowers and bamboo interspersed with colourful Turkish lamps. They also do takeaway and delivery. Website >> The Haunch of Venison is a medieval pub right in the centre of Salisbury. Filled with oak beans, uneven flooring, a ghost and 700 years of history, there is a bar downstairs and restaurant upstairs. Food is based on traditional English pub fare with an upmarket twist, and include meals such as wild venison steak, beetroot risotto and fish of the day. Find out more >> The Pheasant Inn is in the centre of Salisbury in Salt Lane. A medieval building with a beer garden, this pub has a small menu of British classics, as well as several vegan options. With a separate lunch and Sunday menu, this is a great place to eat for good quality, straightforward food. Website >> Tinga is an immersive Mexican dining experience, locally owned and centrally located. The décor is amazing; so vibrant and atmospheric and you don't know what to look at first. The extensive menu is equally as good, with plenty of vegan and vegetarian options and degrees of chili heat. Tinga is very popular with locals so book ahead. Website >> Baroushka is a locally owned Middle Eastern restaurant with an excellent menu and delicious food. They serve sharing platters, including vegan ones, as well as meze dishes, tagines and salads. The restaurant is near the train station, and they also do home delivery and takeaways. They run a loyalty scheme for regular customers. The food is excellent and highly recommended. Website >> Grillado is an Italian restaurant on Castle Street in the centre of town. It has an A La Carte menu but also offers takeaway, including pizzas. The food is authentically Italian and the owners pride themselves on using the best quality sourced ingredients. Dishes include options such as lamb, pork and fish dishes, as well as vegetarian options. Website >> Anokaa is very popular with the locals. It provides a modern take on Indian and Persian cuisine, in a restaurant of colour changing lights and water features. The food is excellent and varied, with dishes such as green spiced lobster thermidor or organic vegetable melange. They also do a takeaway service, which you can order online. Website >> Thai Sarocha is centrally located in New Street, where it has been since 2008. Adapting Thai food for western taste, there is a wide variety of dishes on offer such as Jungle Curry, stir frys, fish and noodle dishes. There are also set menus on offer, as well as a takeaway service which can be booked online. Website >> Cafes for light lunches, snacks and afternoon tea Salisbury Museum has a lovely little café directly opposite the cathedral. They serve coffee, cakes, daily specials and cream teas and are open every lunchtime. You do not need to pay to enter the museum to use the café. There is outdoor seating in the beautiful garden which has cathedral views. Website >> Caboose is the place to go for a fancy afternoon tea, served on three tier plates with finger food hand made sandwiches, artisan cakes, scones and champagne or tea. They are only served at weekends and must be booked in advance, which you can do through their website >> Takeaways in Salisbury Popeyes provides a variety of kebabs, pizzas, burgers, pizzas and jacket potatoes. You can order online or over the phone and get delivery or collect from their shop in Estcourt Road. Website >> Manis provides kebabs, wraps, burgers, chicken, jacket potatoes and meal deals which can be delivered or collected from their shop in Catherine Street. Website >> Britz Fish & Chips on Wilton Road has an eat in diner, click and collect as well as a delivery service. They also serve burgers, chicken, jacket potatoes as well as traditional British breakfasts. Website >> Visiting Salisbury? Our Salisbury City Guide has lots of information on locally owned places to stay and shop, places to visit and day trips.

  • BEST INDEPENDENT HOLIDAY ACCOMMODATION IN SALISBURY

    Looking for the best hotels, self-catering homes and B&Bs in Salisbury and its rural surroundings? Salisbury may have its fair share of chain hotels, but there are plenty of alternatives on offer to help you avoid the homogeneous, mass produced, soulless places that many visitors are forced into when they are away from home. Here is a selection of the top independently owned properties which are perfect for your stay in the beautiful medieval city of Salisbury. Illustration by Clem Ali Independent Hotels/B&Bs in central Salisbury Caboose, 115 Southwestern Road Caboose is a 1920s inspired hotel and cocktail bar, barely a two minute walk from the train station. Owned by two Salisbury locals, it is a stylish and immersive visit to the 20s. There is a restaurant, cocktail bar and eight ensuite bedrooms, all with rainfall showers. Everything has been sourced with a great attention to detail, from hand made British beds to sheets of Egyptian cotton. Guests are given an access card to enable them to avoid walking through the restaurant and bar if they wish to. They also offer a left luggage service, meaning that even if you are not a resident, they will guard your bags while you go out sightseeing, for a small fee. See their website for more details and lots more photos. Prices start at around £75 per night. Book online >> The Old Rectory, 75 Belle Vue Road A Victorian B&B less than a ten minute walk away from the city centre, The Old Rectory has plenty of original features as well as modern day luxurious touches and a large, secluded garden. There is an extensive breakfast menu, free parking on site and all rooms are ensuite. Prices start at £65 for a single room with breakfast. Find out more and book your stay >> Self-catering accommodation in Salisbury Purlins, High Street Opened in 2021, this self-catering flat is in the High Street with views over the High Street Gate, and only a two minute walk to the cathedral. Immaculately furnished with two bedrooms, a sitting room with a large bay window, a fully equipped kitchen, original fireplace and even a roof terrace, the flat also provides a parking space. You will not be able to find a better location than this for access to all of the highlights of Salisbury as well as the restaurants and shops. Find out more and book your stay >> Independent Country Hotels/B&Bs near Salisbury Teffont House, Teffont Previously known as Howard's House, this stunning hotel in the beautiful village of Teffont, is about 12 miles outside Salisbury. Built in 1623, it was once the Dower House of the local estate, and it still retains many of its original features. There are several large ensuite rooms, one with a four poster bed, and all with lovely views. There are two acres of gardens which include a fountain and croquet lawn. The hotel is well known for its restaurant; serving high quality food by a highly regarded chef. The hotel has its own kitchen gardens and free range chickens, and the menu changes seasonally. Prices start at around £85 for single occupancy, and can be booked online. The hotel has a free car park, but for those looking to travel more sustainably, there is a regular bus from Salisbury which takes about 30 minutes. More details and book online >> Nadder Barn, Bemerton Located in the outskirts of Salisbury in the satellite village of Bemerton, Nadder Barn is a two-bedroom self-catering holiday home with a terrace and a garden. Perfect for families or longer stays, there is also the option to fish on the River Nadder which runs by the property. The house is closer to Wilton rather than Salisbury, but is on the main bus route to Salisbury or can be walked in 25 minutes. The house gets excellent reviews for its character, comfort and location. More details and book online >> Independent Camping/Glamping in and around Salisbury Chalke Valley Camping Situated in the beautiful village of Bowerchalke on the Wiltshire/Dorset border, the campsite is a 40 minute bus journey from Salisbury. The site is idyllic, with six bell tents set in a field near a small lake and surrounded by fields. The campsite has a communal kitchen and seating area, hot showers, modern loos and incredible views. Each tent comes with a fire pit and a BBQ, with a basket of logs, marshmallows, cider, fairy lights and cooking essentials supplied. This is the ideal location for people who want a more peaceful, rural location for their holiday. There is a lot to do in the area, such as Rockbourne Roman Villa, Old Wardour Castle and the Fovant Badges. It is also in the Cranbourne Chase Dark Skies area, one of only 14 around the world which have been certified as International Dark Skies with exceptionally starry skies due to little light pollution. More details and book online >> Stonehenge Campsite & Glamping Pods Just 3 miles from Stonehenge, this award winning campsite is very popular with visitors. Run by a local family, the 5 acre site has facilities such as a shop selling locally sourced products, free Wi-Fi, a shower block, communal kitchens and good recycling facilities. There are hard standing areas for caravans with electric hook ups, as well as areas just for traditional campers. There is a dedicated campfire field, making it possibly the only campsite in Wiltshire which allows campfires. The site holds regular events, including a four day Solstice festival every June. The site has been awarded a David Bellamy Gold Award for its approach to wildlife, planting a wildflower meadow and hundreds of indigenous trees and hedges. The site offers several glamping tents, with a mixture of pods and a yurt, each one different in what it offers. More details and book online >> Vintage and Quirky stays in Salisbury The Wardrobe, Cathedral Close Owned by the Landmark Trust, this is a holiday flat at the top of The Wardrobe, a 14th century building originally owned by one of the canons of the cathedral. In the Middle Ages, the building was used to store the household of the Bishops goods. It is now the home of The Rifles Berkshire and Wiltshire Museum. The two bedroomed apartment is high in the attic, with views directly over the Close and the cathedral. It could not be a better location for exploring Salisbury; there is so much to do within walking distance, and it is only a short walk from the train station. The gates to the Close are locked every night at 11, so you are guaranteed peace and quiet while you admire the beauty of the cathedral at night. More details and book online >> Sarum College Sarum College is a Christian Education Centre and B&B, inside the Cathedral Close. Built in two parts, the red brick building was built in 1677, designed by Christopher Wren. The flint chapel was added in 1881. It holds regular lectures, events, and musical concerts as well as being a theological college. The B&B is open to anyone and offers a range of ensuite rooms or ones with shared bathroom facilities. There are communal dining and sitting rooms, and by all accounts a learned and interesting atmosphere. Being so close to the cathedral it is the perfect base from which to explore the city. Prices start at £44. More details and book online >> The Tiny House This quirky tiny house is located in the southern part of the city, inside a private walled garden with views across water meadows to the cathedral. It is fully self contained with a kitchen and bathroom, and a bedroom on a mezzanine level. There is underfloor heating and a log burner to keep it cosy. It sleeps two, but there is a shepherd's hut on the same property, which can also be booked out for additional guests. The house is equipped with everything you may need for your stay, as well as free parking. There are also regular buses which will get you to the centre of Salisbury in under 15 minutes. More details and book online >> Longstay Peartree Serviced Apartments This Apartment Hotel is right next to the train station, making it the ideal place for exploring the country with public transport, as well as great access to Salisbury and environs. The apartments are generously sized, sound proofed and have fully equipped kitchen areas and bathrooms, with separate seating areas. There is free WiFi, a free laundry room and housekeeping. There are one bed, two bed and family apartments, and apartments can be booked for long or short term stays. More details and book online >> Homestays There are several homestay options available in Salisbury, where you can stay as part of a household, usually for far less cost than a hotel or apartment. There is a wide variety of places on offer, including a Grade II listed Georgian townhouse, which you can book through Homestay >> Another alternative is homesitting, where you will live in a persons home while they are away, and look after the house and pets in exchange for free accommodation. Some homeowners will also give you use of their car. You can stay in some amazing houses and places using this method, for minimal cost, and it is a fantastic way to really get to know a new area in depth. There are several companies which offer homesitting - Trusted Housesitters is a good one to try and has some fabulous properties on its books. Find out more >> Visiting Salisbury Our Salisbury City Guide has lots of information on places to visit and locally owned places to eat and shop.

  • 10 OF ENGLAND’S PRESTIGIOUS SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES YOU DIDN’T KNOW YOU COULD VISIT

    Britain’s most prestigious educational establishments are famous around the world for their history, traditions and high educational achievements. Pupils come from across the globe to attend these pinnacles of accomplishment, whether its a school, college or military academy. Schools such as Eton, Harrow, Rugby and Winchester have been around for centuries and their buildings are of architectural and historical significance. Here, we look at ten such educational institutions that few people know you can visit as a tourist. Thinking about British public schools can conjure up images of tailcoats, bow ties, straw hats and corporal punishment. Frequently written about in some of the great literature over the centuries, from Tom Brown’s Schooldays to Goodbye Mr Chips, Mallory Towers and the Harry Potter novels, they have a reputation of cold dormitories but high educational standards. Housed in some of the finest and oldest buildings still in use in the country, they have long been places of mystery and inscrutability, that only pupils and staff have ever had access to. This has changed over the years however, and now some of Britain’s finest educational establishments have opened their doors to the public. This provides a unique opportunity for the visitor to see some rare sights, such as a classroom which was built in 1450, a passing out parade of army cadets or the rugby fields where the sport was invented nearly 200 years ago. Westminster School, London Photograph © cmglee There has been a school on the site in Westminster since before the Norman invasion of 1066, although in its current formation it has been in existence since 1560 when Queen Elizabeth I ‘refounded’ the school. The school buildings are in various different locations around the UNESCO heritage site of Westminster and include the oldest Medieval refectory, a main hall which was built in 1090 as a monks dormitory and College Garden, the oldest garden in England which has been continuously cultivated for over 1000 years. Public tours run in the school holidays and must be pre-arranged with the schools archivist. Read more >> Winchester College, Winchester, Hampshire Photograph © Christophe Finot Founded in 1382 by William Wykeham the Bishop of Winchester, Winchester College in Hampshire is one of the world’s oldest schools. The school is also one of the few which is still boys only. It has over 80 listed buildings of Medieval architecture across 11 acres of grounds. The College has converted a Medieval stable block into a museum, where they open their art and archaeology collection to the public which has artefacts from Egypt, Greece, Rome and China. Known as The Treasury, this collection is free for the public to view. Public tours run daily and include the museum as well as the Medieval heart of the school. They do not need to be pre-booked. Find out more >> Eton College, Windsor, Berkshire Founded in 1440 by King Henry VI next to Windsor just outside London, Eton is perhaps the best known of all British public schools. Famous for their traditional uniforms and high achieving pupils, alumni include several Prime Ministers, including the present one, authors, actors, poets and royalty, including both Prince William and Prince Harry. The school includes a stunning chapel with 15th century murals, a heritage museum and a classroom that has been in continuous use for over 500 years. Tours usually take place on Fridays in the summer months and can be booked online. Read about a tour around Eton School >> Rugby School, Rugby, Warwickshire Photograph © G13114 Founded in 1567 as a boys grammar school in Warwickshire, the school is famous for being the birthplace of the sport of rugby, where it is said that a pupil picked up the ball and ran with it during a game of football in 1823. Alumni include Lewis Caroll, Prime Minister Neville Chamberlain, Rupert Brooke and Salman Rushdie. The school is now co-educational. Tours for the public include the impressive school buildings, the hallowed rugby ground and the school museum and take place on Saturdays. Email the school to reserve a place or you can take your chances and show up at the school shop on a Saturday at 2pm. Harrow School, Harrow, London Photograph © Bernard Burns Founded in 1572 by a Royal Charter of Queen Elizabeth I, Harrow is one of only four all boys, all boarding schools left in the country. The original building consisted of what is now called the Fourth Form Room with lessons taking place in all four corners simultaneously, mostly Latin. Harrow has some notable alumni including Prime Ministers such as Churchill, Baldwin and Palmerston, several kings and royalty, Nobel Prize winners and many holders of the Victoria Cross. The school runs public tours four times a year which can be booked online. The tours cover the historic buildings and provide an insight into this unique British institution. Charterhouse, Godalming, Surrey Founded in 1611 by Thomas Sutton on the site of an old Carthusian monastery in London which you can also visit, the school moved to its present site in Surrey in 1872. It is one of the most expensive schools in England and is now co-educational. The site is an impressive 200 acres and includes a chapel built by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott to commemorate the 700 pupils who died in World War I, making it the largest war memorial in the country. Visitors can do self guided heritage tours of the extensive site using this leaflet to guide them round. The tours do not include entering the buildings which are off-limits to the public. Stowe School, Stowe, Buckinghamshire Photograph © Kevin Gordon Founded in 1923 in the country manor of the Dukes of Buckingham and Chandos, this Grade I listed building has some incredible architecture and historic landscaped gardens. The rooms are flamboyant, filled with hidden messages and mythology which reflect the former owners eccentric pasts, before bankruptcy led to the property being abandoned. Saved from demolition by being purchased as a school, the first headmaster was J.F. Roxburgh, who changed the face of British public school education. Alumni include Sir Richard Branson, David Niven and Sir Nicholas Winton. The gardens are owned by the National Trust but the school can be visited separately by tours which can be booked online. Royal Military Academy Sandhurst, Sandhurst, Berkshire Army officer cadet training has taken place at Sandhurst since 1801, when the training school at Woolwich merged with the Military College. Tours take in both chapels, the Indian Army Memorial Room and many of the other Prestige rooms, the museum, the grounds and architecture. Visitors can also book to attend the Commandant’s Parade, which takes place three times a year and is a practice passing out parade before the main event, the Sovereign’s Parade. Tours and parades can be booked directly online. Sandhurst also runs a heritage day each year when the site is open to the public. Read all about a visit to RMA Sandhurst >> Britannia Royal Naval College, Dartmouth, Devon Royal Naval officer training has taken place at this college in Dartmouth, Devon, since 1863. The magnificent buildings designed by Sir Aston Webb date from 1905 and overlooks the beautiful estuary of the River Dart. Several members of the British royal family served here, and it was here that Prince Phillip and the then Princess Elizabeth first met in 1939. Public tours take place most Mondays and Wednesdays and can be booked online. Tours take in the chapel, Quarterdeck, parade ground and the heritage museum. Royal Airforce College Cranwell, Sleaford, Lincolnshire The RAF college of Airforce officer cadets, RAF Cranwell is the newest of the prestigious establishments, having been founded in 1919, a year after the formation of the RAF. The present day building, which was finished in 1933, is Grade II listed and was based on the Royal Hospital at Chelsea. A College Memorial chapel was added in the 1950s. Tours are by appointment only and can be arranged by completing an online form. The nearby Cranwell Aviation Heritage Museum has interactive exhibits and flight simulators.

  • 14 UNDERGROUND BUNKER MUSEUMS YOU CAN VISIT IN THE UK

    Whether they originate from World War II, when operations against the enemy had to be kept top secret, or from the Cold War when the threat of mass destruction was very real, underground bunkers have been a necessary tool in 20th century military defence. Only a few of these once top secret bunkers are now open to the public; others still remain off limits. Read on to see which ones you can visit. After the ending of the Cold War in 1991, when the threat of a nuclear strike faded away with the collapse of the Berlin Wall and the dissolution of the Warsaw Pact, the subterranean concrete bunkers that had been built to house emergency personnel during such an attack, became redundant. Some had been built much earlier and used during World War II, when the threat was more immediate but less potentially catastrophic, and revamped afterwards when the Cold War started. Many have since been destroyed or sold off for private uses, which range from underground farming to music schools, but a few still remain and have opened their doors to the public as museums. These once top secret bunkers with their blast doors, concealed entrances and underground habitation systems can provide a fascinating glimpse into the past, whether its the Cold War or the earlier days of World War II. The bleak concrete walls, endless narrow tunnels and utility furniture all help to bring the threats of the past vividly into the present in a way that many museums can’t, which makes them very intriguing places to visit. The Churchill War Rooms, London One of the five Imperial War Museums, this huge bunker is hidden underneath the streets of Westminster and is where Churchill and his cabinet directed World War II. You can see the meeting rooms, operations rooms, map room, living quarters and the vast network of corridors where staff spent so much time that they rarely saw the light of day. There is also a comprehensive exhibition about Churchill himself, filled with artefacts from his life including his hat, cigars and champagne bottles. A popular attraction, so buy your tickets online in advance. Find out more >> Hack Green Secret Nuclear Bunker, Nantwich Photograph © Espresso Addict Built in the 1950s and revamped in the 1980s when nuclear war became an even bigger threat, this top secret bunker was to be the home of regional government in the event of war. It now houses the largest public display of decommissioned nuclear weapons in Europe, as well as plenty of original equipment still in place; there is also a cinema showing once secret films, a simulator that recreates conditions in the bunker when undergoing a nuclear attack, a labyrinth of corridors to explore and plenty of hands on activities. The bunker hosts special events, has trails for kids and a cafe on site.  Read more >> Kelvedon Hatch Secret Nuclear Bunker, Brentwood This relic from the Cold War was intended as a place of safety for government and council officials in the event of a nuclear attack. Deep underground it still has all of its 1980s machinery and technology, with faxes and teleprinters in abundance. Once secret films are on view, showing how people were expected to protect themselves when the bomb dropped, and just how futile sheltering under a table surrounded by doors and bags would be. As well as the bunker there is a cafe and plenty of family friendly outdoor activities on offer in the woodland above. Read about a visit to the bunker >> The Battle of Britain Bunker, Uxbridge Here in the Operations Room deep underneath layers of steel and concrete is where the Battle of Britain was conducted saving the UK from the Luftwaffe in World War II. Still laid out as it was, the maps, pointers and the Tote board have all survived. An excellent new museum has recently opened above ground which tells the story of the momentous events which occurred there and explains how the creation of the Dowding System ensured that the Allies kept the upper hand. With plenty of interactive exhibits and events, the museum is family friendly. Read about a visit to the bunker >> Western Approaches Museum, Liverpool Photograph © Liverpool War Museum Also known as the Liverpool War Museum, this bunker underneath the streets of Liverpool was where the Battle of the Atlantic was directed during World War II. Convoy routes were monitored and the enemy hunted from the Operations Room, the naval version of the Battle of Britain operations room in the bunker in Uxbridge. 300 staff once worked here day and night and a visit to the bunker is said to be a trip back in time to their lives as it has been left exactly as it was in 1945 when the war was over. The museum hosts lots of events and family friendly activities, including a half term spy club and 1940s Time Traveller weekends.  Find out more >> York Cold War Bunker, York Photograph © Mike Peel Now owned by English Heritage, this bunker in the grounds of a large Edwardian house is another relic of the Cold War. It was in active use between the 1960s – 1990s. The bunker would have been staffed by the Royal Observer Core, and was the regional centre for a cluster of sub bunkers, which would have collated information on bomb drop sites, tracked nuclear fallout and radioactivity to give people warning. The bunker is still fully equipped and includes a decontamination room, dormitories and one of only two remaining AWDREY supercomputers. Access is by an hour long guided tour, which runs every hour.  Find out more >> Scotland’s Secret Bunker, Fife A farmhouse hides the entrance to this underground nuclear command centre built in 1951. Government and military commanders would have run the country from here in the event of a nuclear attack. Intended to house 300 personnel, it is equipped with a nuclear command centre, an RAF control room, a BBC broadcasting room, a chapel, dormitories, weapons stores, cinemas and more. Much of the bunker is a recreation of how it would have looked during active service. There is also a CND room, to give visitors a balanced viewpoint around the issues connected to the site. Just five minutes outside St. Andrews, the bunker is a popular tourist attraction. Find out more >> RAF Holmpton, Nr. Hull Photograph © RafHolmpton Hidden beneath a bungalow in the former RAF base of Holmpton, this cold war defence bunker was built in the 1950s and was in active service until 2014. It started out as an early warning radar station and was used for observation and training purposes throughout the years. It is also the last place any member of the Royal Observer Corps served before the Corps was disbanded. It is now a privately run museum which shows the bunker as it was during the Cold War. Find out more >> RAF Radar Museum, Norfolk Photograph © Radar Museum Housed in a Grade II listed radar operations building, this is a large museum which also includes an underground bunker as part of the building. The site was established during World War II, when the first secret radar system was installed. The three storey bunker was added in the 1950s to cope in the event of a nuclear attack. The museum has a huge collection of objects which covers all of the aspects involved in RAF radar, and is staffed by a team of volunteers, most of whom have worked in the still operational RAF base nearby.  Find out more >> Barnton Quarry, Edinburgh Photograph © AlasdairW. This Cold War bunker is still undergoing a massive revamp before it can open its doors to the public. The site in a disused quarry was first used in World War II as RAF Fighter Command for 603 Squardon, with a bunker added in the 1950s. It is the only one left in the UK which has the original three level operations room. The bunker is being restored to how it was in 1952 and a museum and education centre constructed to tell its story and that of the RAF, particularly 603 Fighter Squadron. The project is nearly halfway through, so keep an eye on their website to see when it will be nearing completion. Find out more >> Skelmorie Secret Bunker, Scotland Photograph © Skelmorie Secret Bunker An undergroud Royal Observer Corps monitoring post, this bunker was a part of the Cold War, and staffed until as recently as 1991. It sits on the coastline of the Clyde Muirsheil Regional Park on Scotland's western coast, and was to monitor and report on the effects of a nuclear attack, one of a chain of them across the UK. This bunker has a visitor centre and a museum, with the bunker only accessible via a 15 foot vertical ladder. Visits must be pre-booked and bunker access is not suitable for everyone. Find out more >> Dover Castle, Kent Owned by English Heritage, there has been a defensive structure on the site for over 900 years. The current castle was built around 1179. during World War II, the underground casements became bomb-proof offices for the Royal Navy, and it was here that Operation Neptune, the seagoing element of D-Day, was planned. During the Cold War, the castle was refitted as a department for dealing with the aftermath of a nuclear attack. Visitors can tour the underground tunnels, as well as explore the rest of the castle's history. Find out more >> Broadway Tower Nuclear Bunker, Cotswolds Part of the Broadway Tower Estate, this nuclear bunker was once a monitoring post built to study and report the effects of nuclear explosions and the resulting radioactive fallout. Originally manned by the Royal Observer Corps, it has been recreated to how it was in the 1980s at the height of the Cold War. Only accessible by ladder and only open in the summer months, guided tours last 45 minutes. The site is part of a wider 50 acre estate with The Tower, an eccentric folly, the Tower Museum, gardens by Capability Brown and several cafes. Find out more >> Porthcurno Bunker, Cornwall This bunker was once a top secret underground location for all of the communications which came into and left the UK, being a central hub for all global communications. Hidden underground out of sight of German bombers, the bunker is now open as part of the Museum of Global Communications. You can explore the bunker and visit the museum which is filled with paraphernalia including an unexploded bomb. Find out more >>

  • THE CANADIAN WAR MEMORIAL IN THE NEW FOREST

    On a narrow side road in the Bolderwood area of the New Forest and tucked away in the treeline, is a simple looking wooden cross, backed by a Canadian flag and surrounded by weatherworn photos and poems. It stands as a poignant memorial to the Canadian troops who were stationed in the New Forest during the build up to D-Day, many of whom lost their lives on that day and the subsequent months. Due to its close proximity to the south coast and the embarkation points for Normandy, the New Forest saw a huge influx of troops before the planned re-occupation of France. Troops from all Allied nations gathered in the south of England, training and preparing for the big push, while the necessary equipment was manufactured and assembled for the journey across the Channel. Secrecy was a necessity, and the coverage provided by the trees of the forest kept many of the activities hidden from enemy planes flying overhead. THE CANADIANS IN THE NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE The Canadian Third Infantry were one of the battalions who arrived in the area in early 1944. Their chaplain looked around for somewhere to hold services for the men, and found Mogshade Hill, a scenic place with views over the hills and nearby Highland Water. He bolted together two pine logs to make a cross, erecting it next to a fence, and placed an altar covered in the Canadian flag in front of it. Men stood down the slope facing the altar and as it has a sharp drop behind it, it gave them an inspiring outlook over the forest. The site was used for services from April 1944 until they left for the D-Day invasion. The Canadians landed at Juno Beach in the first hour of the assault, where they suffered terrible losses and casualties. By noon, the whole division was ashore and by the end of the day, they had penetrated further into France than any other Allied force. THE CHAPEL BECOMES A MEMORIAL Their outdoor chapel remained as it was, until 1949 when the Deputy Surveyor of the New Forest wrote to the Canadian embassy to say that the cross was decaying and perhaps it could be replaced with a cross of New Forest oak, with a plaque, to act as a memorial to the Canadian soldiers who had worshipped there. The chaplain who had made the first cross wrote the words for the plaque, although it wasn’t put up until the 1960s. The memorial is now enclosed in a small fenced area, with two flagpoles either side of the cross, a large Canadian flag behind the cross and an array of weather-worn poppy wreaths, crosses, photos, poems and other memorabilia. Behind it is dense forest which falls away down a hill, a mass of vivid ferns and dark conifers, while opposite is exposed heathland; low level plants with tiny flowers, topped by open skies punctuated by the odd bleached tree carcass. People clearly still make emotional visits here, with plaintive messages to long dead grandfathers, poems from men who survived the onslaught to their fallen comrades, photos of a couple married during the war and as they are now in old age. It is a poignant and moving place to visit, and one of the few remaining visible reminders of the impact of the war on the Forest. Another you may like to visit is the nearby war memorial to the Portuguese who worked in the New Forest during World War I - a stone fireplace standing alone in the forest is all that remains of their camp. Further south on the coast you can visit Lepe Beach, where you can still see many remnants from the preparations for D-Day and where many men sailed from. VISITING THE CANADIAN WAR MEMORIAL How to get to the Canadian War Memorial Postcode: SO43 7GQ what3words: undercuts.hypocrite.wishing Public Transport: Use Moovit to find out how to get there as it is not on any direct public transport routes. There are several ways to get there depending on where you are coming from. Parking: The best place to park is at the Bolderwood Deer Sanctuary, which has plenty of free parking (what3words: cluttered.november.pipes). It is a ten minute walk to the Canadian War Memorial through some beautiful forest. When is the Canadian War Memorial open? The memorial is open at all times. How much does it cost to visit the Canadian War Memorial? The site is free to visit and there are no charges for parking either. Are there any facilities at the Canadian War Memorial? There is often an ice cream truck at the Bolderwood Deer Sanctuary parking area, and plenty of places to picnic in the forest. There are also public loos at the Deer Sanctuary. The nearest town is Lyndhurst, which has a full array of shops, restaurants and amenities.

  • THE DOOM PAINTING OF ST. THOMAS’S CHURCH, SALISBURY

    Salisbury’s Doom Painting is the largest and best preserved in the UK. These medieval works of art were intended to remind the congregation of the judgement that would befall them when the end came. Painted around 1470, it was covered with lime whitewash during the Reformation and not seen again until 1819. Following its most recent restoration in 2019 it is back to its medieval, vibrant glory and is essential viewing for anyone visiting Salisbury. Doom paintings were once a common sight in the churches of England. They are wall paintings which depicted the Last Judgement, when God would pass his judgement on the people and they would ascend to heaven or descend into hell, depending on their actions during their lives. They were often painted over the chancel so that the congregation would spend their whole time in church looking at the image, a stark reminder of what fate could befall them if they didn’t follow their religious instruction. The history of the Doom painting in St Thomas’s is a fascinating one. Painted by an unknown English painter who was heavily influenced by the contemporary Flemish schools, it was painted around 1470 when the church building was undergoing expansion. After just over a century of dominating the church and the thoughts of its worshippers, it was covered up in the Reformation, obliterated by coats of whitewash. It remained forgotten until 1819, when faint traces of colour emerged during cleaning. It was uncovered and a drawing made, then for some reason it was covered with whitewash again. Finally, in 1881, the whitewash was removed once and for all. The painting fills the wall above the chancel arch and continues down down the sides into the spandrels. As with all doom paintings, it has Christ sitting in the centre. Here he is sitting on a rainbow, with his feet on a smaller rainbow. His hands are raised, and both hands and feet show the signs of his crucifixion, with blood running from them. Behind him, angels hold the cross, his crown of thorns, a pillar, a sponge, spear and nails. Further behind the Kingdom of Heaven is the Star of the East and the Sun of Righteousness. To his right is the Blessed Virgin and to his left is John the Evangelist. Beneath his feet are the twelve Apostles who are judging the twelve tribes of Israel. It is what is beneath them, running down the spandrels, which is what I find the most interesting however. On the left is a burial ground set in a green garden, with the dead emerging from their graves, helped by Angels with trumpets. The dead at the bottom are emerging wrapped entirely in shrouds, others are casting off their shrouds and others are entirely naked, except for some with hats; a Bishop’s mitre, a labourers hat and a crown. The angels are leading the groups of the naked into heaven, gazing beatifically at their smiling faces. On the other spandrel we see what happens to the evil sinners. Flames are rising from the ground where the dead are emerging, their bodies contorted in pain. Dragged out by demons, they are bundled together in chains and forced into the mouth of a fiery dragon, the mouth of hell, his jaws held open by two demons. They are also naked except for some with hats, one Bishop’s mitre and two crowns, and many of them are clutching their heads in agony. An angel is trying to encourage them into the Kingdom of Heaven, but it is too late for them, they are whisked away by demons. Local lore has it that one of the faces of sinners depicts Agnes Botthenham, landlady of the Rydedorre (now the Rai d’Or public house) in Salisbury which she ran as a house of ill repute, where women would hang out of the windows selling their wares. It seems a little unfair on her as she later repented of her ways and founded the Trinity Hospital for the Poor in 1390, which is still in existence today as Salisbury Almshouses. The demons are impish little things and quite different from those depicted in other Doom paintings. In others, demons are often large, hulking, clumsy beasts wielding pitchforks or turnspits. Here they are depicted as small and agile, mischievous rather than evil personified. The Prince of Darkness stands between the Apostles and sinners, with the head and feet of a beast, one bird-like foot peeking cheekily over the painting and onto the bare stone of the chancel arch. With his hand perched coquettishly on his hip, he is being handed a drink by the only clothed sinner there, a woman with a whimple who seems to be hugging a demon. A scroll at the bottom says Nulla est Redemptio – there is no escape for the wicked. The whole painting is fascinating, and now after its recent restoration in 2019, the pale colours have been transformed into vivid, detailed depictions of the Judgement. It was restored in phases, starting with brushing off all of the dust and securing the painted plaster that had become detached. It was then cleaned with fine decorators brushes and sponges and a protective coat added. Hopefully it will now last well into the next century, providing a must-see attraction for years to come for visitors to Salisbury. VISITING ST. THOMAS’S CHURCH How to find St.Thomas's Church Postcode: SP1 1BA what3words: casual.milky.shins Public Transport: St. Thomas is in the centre of town, only a short walk from the train station and various bus stops. Parking: There is no parking on site, but use the Central Car Park (what3words: smug.allow.gosh) which is just a two minute walk away. When is St. Thomas' open? Weekdays: 9am - 5pm Sundays: 12pm - 5pm How much does it cost to visit St. Thomas'? Entrance is free but please do consider making a donation in one of the boxes at the entrance. Are there any facilities at St. Thomas'? There is an accessible loo for use during services and events only, free WiFi for use while you are in the church and there is often tea and coffee available. St. Thomas Website >> Visiting Salisbury See our Salisbury City Guide for information on what there is to see and visit as well as locally owned places to eat, shop and stay.

  • A SELF GUIDED WALKING TOUR OF HISTORIC SALISBURY

    As one of England’s medieval cities, Salisbury in Wiltshire is an ideal destination for culture enthusiasts. We have put together a walk of all of the free heritage sites in this market town, which you can complete in a few hours, or in a day if you want plenty of time for relaxing, dining and further exploration. The cathedral city of Salisbury often crops up under travel headlines such as the 'loveliest town in England' (Telegraph) or one of the 'Top Ten Cities to visit in the World' (Lonely Planet) as well as the Best Place to live in England 2019 (Sunday Times). With accolades like this, its fame as the home to Salisbury Cathedral with the tallest spire in England, and the nearest city to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Stonehenge, it is no surprise that the city receives many tourists throughout the year. There is more to Salisbury than the Cathedral and its Close, with other historic sites dotted around the town, particularly medieval ones. We have put together a one day itinerary for those looking to see the best that Salisbury has to offer for the history enthusiast, all of which are free to visit. The itinerary focuses on the historic centre of the city, avoiding some of the places where city planners have not been kind to the area. Locations of the venues are given using what3words. Start your tour at the church of St. Thomas and St. Edmund, which is a 9 minute walk away from the train station. THE CHURCH OF ST. THOMAS BECKETT what3words: speak.caked.cross Cost: Free, but please do leave a donation if you can The church is as old as the city, with a wooden structure on the site to serve as the place of worship for the builders of the cathedral. The current church mostly dates from the 15th century, and although the interior has undergone some changes over the years, you can still see the medieval wall paintings showing the badges of the guilds. There are some fascinating objects in the church, but what stands out the most is the Doom Painting above the chancel, which is the largest and best preserved one in England. It was painted around 1470 and has recently been restored. Doom paintings were once a common feature in churches, an ever present reminder to the congregation as to what the afterlife could have in store for them. Read more about the Doom painting and what it means here >> When you leave St. Thomas’ turn left out of the church, walk around the corner to the Haunch of Venison. THE HAUNCH OF VENISON what3words: quarrel.prime.heave Cost: Free unless you buy food or drink here One of the regions oldest hostelries, the pub dates back over 700 years with its first recorded use being in 1320 to house workmen who were working on the cathedral’s spire. The huge oak beams throughout the pub actually pre-date the building by several hundred years and come from sailing ships. At the front of the pub is a ‘horsebox’ bar, called a ‘Ladies snug’ as it dates back to when women were not allowed in public drinking houses. The pewter top of the bar counter is one of only six left in the country, and the arch of gravity fed spirit taps are one of only five left in the country. It was here that Churchill and Eisenhower are said to have met to plan D-Day in 1944, when nearby Wilton House was Southern Command for the invasion. The pub also has a former bread oven which houses a smoke preserved mummified hand holding 18th century playing cards, which was found when the building was undergoing some modifications in 1911. Reputedly the hand of a card player who was caught cheating and had it chopped off and thrown in a fire, it has been stolen several times from the pub, but always found its way back, where it is now under lock and key. The pub has a secret tunnel which leads to St. Thomas’ church, which is said to date from the days when the pub was a brothel, as well as a secret bar that is only occasionally opened to the public. It is also said to be one of the most haunted pubs in England, haunted by the ‘Demented Whist Player’ as well as several other ghosts. As well as a fascinating historic place to stop for a drink, there is a restaurant that serves some excellent food. It is independently owned and so perfect for the Slow Traveller. Find out more >> Opposite the Haunch of Venison is the Poultry Cross, less than a 30 second walk away. THE POULTRY CROSS what3words: goods.woods.times Cost: Free Poultry Cross is a Grade I listed market cross, one of four which once stood in Salisbury, the others being a cheese cross, Barnards Cross (livestock) and a wool cross. They all marked the venues of the markets in the city. Salisbury was granted a market charter in 1227 and there has been a market cross on the site since 1307. The structure you see today dates back to the 15th century with some 19th century additions. On Tuesdays and Saturdays it is still surrounded by market stalls; otherwise it is used by locals as a meeting place or a good place to sit for a rest, or shelter if it is raining. Walk through the narrow lane between buildings to reach the market square, it is less than a 30 second walk. THE MARKET SQUARE what3words: trace.ropes.ashes Cost: Free Salisbury’s Market Square has been in continuous use since about 1269, and was larger than it currently is, as Fish Row, Ox Row, Butcher Row and Oatmeal Row have crept into the original space, probably built to hold permanent shops to replace the temporary stalls. Salisbury’s Market is still held on Tuesdays and Saturdays, as it has been for over 700 years. The lime trees you see around the market square were planted in 1867 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. The square now is fronted on two sides by an eclectic mix of building styles and shops, many of which are cafes or pubs with large outdoor seating areas. The Market Square has a statue to Henry Fawcett, husband to Millicent Garret Fawcett, author, politician and Postmaster. Read about his connection to Salisbury >> THE GUILDHALL SQUARE what3words: ports.lost.royal Cost: Free Next to the Market Square is the Guildhall Square, which contains the Guildhall and the war memorial. Erected after World War I in 1922, it was unveiled by TE Adlam, a Salisbury resident who was awarded the VC for his bravery in battle. It is Grade II listed and is somewhat unusual for war memorials as it is horizontal in style, with a bronze sculpture. The names of the fallen in World War II were added later. The memorial is still the focal point for remembrance services within the city. Behind the memorial is the Guildhall, Salisbury’s civic building. There are a couple of rooms which are usually open to the public and which display works of art, the city’s silver, and an impressive oak court room. Unless there is an event on, you can just walk inside and ask to look at the rooms which are open to the public. Read more about the Guildhall >> When you leave the Guildhall, turn right. Opposite you is Queen Street. It is less than a ten second walk away. QUEEN STREET what3words: minus.hint.legal Cost: Free No. 8 Queen Street, the double gabled medieval house, was built in 1425 and restored in 1930. The house is known as the House of John A’Port, a wool merchant who was Mayor of Salisbury six times and is one of the rich merchants houses which overlooked the market place. Now a clothing shop, it still has a few original features, but has sadly covered up much of its wattle and daub walls. For these, you need to go next door to No. 9 Queen Street. Now a Cotswold Outdoor shop, go inside if it’s open and walk up to the first floor. Here, there are some magnificent examples of original wattle and daub on display, the timber beams and brick walls showing the craftsmanship involved in the work. It is really worth a look. Just a couple of shops down is the entrance to Cross Keys Mall. Go inside. Ahead of you is a wonderful 17th century wooden Jacobean staircase. This is all that remains of Salisbury's rather exotic Turkish Baths, which were built in 1874. This Mall was once the yard of a popular pub, The Plume of Feathers, and the entrance to the baths was through a narrow passageway and up the stairs. They were once the height of fashion and consisted of "Three hot rooms, maintained at 130°F, 170°F, and 230°F, and a shampooing room, all led off the cooling-room located on the first floor of the building. Additionally, there were hot baths and a range of spray, wave, and rose showers which could also be used by those not wishing to have a Turkish bath, and by those separately attending for hydropathic treatment or massage." (source) The baths closed in 1912, the building demolished in 1974, and all that remains is the wonderful stairs and the balcony you see ahead of you. Head south down Queen Street and turn right onto New Canal. Over the road you will see the Odeon. It is less than a 2 minute walk. THE HOUSE OF JOHN HALLE/THE ODEON CINEMA what3words: police.merit.hosts Cost: Free unless you choose to watch a film Built in 1470, this building was once the home to John Halle, a local wool merchant, mayor and Member of Parliament for Salisbury. The frontage that you see is actually mock Tudor and was added in 1881 by Pugin; you need to go inside to see the Grade I listed medieval hall. You don’t need a ticket to go in and see the hallway, so it is worth popping in for a minute to admire the medieval fireplace, beamed ceiling, stained glass windows and swords and spears which decorate the walls. The cinema also runs free guided tours once a week, or you could even book a ticket to see a film there. Read about doing a tour behind the scenes of the Odeon >> As you leave the Odeon, turn right and walk two minutes up New Canal Street. THE RED LION Photograph © The Red Lion Hotel what3words: marked.modern.fakes Cost: Free unless you buy food or drink The first thing you will notice about the Red Lion Hotel is the stunning entrance. Through the coaching doors you can see a small stone courtyard with ivy draped down the medieval walls, wrought iron tables and chairs dotted around and an abundance of plants. The effect is spectacular. The Red Lion has the distinction of being the longest running, purpose built hotel in the country. Built to house the draughstmen and stone masons working on the cathedral, when the cathedral was finished, the ‘White Bear Inn’ was then used to house visitors to the cathedral and the city of Salisbury. The building has been altered and embellished throughout the years, with the south wing being the oldest part, full of timbered beams and some wattle and daub and a medieval fireplace. Outside the inn was the local Cage and Ducking stool, as one of Salisbury’s watercourses ran outside. This was a way of punishing short-changing shopkeepers, scolds and ‘disorderly women’, who would be dunked in the sewage filled water. The building became The Red Lion in 1769, when the local postmaster took over the inn, and it became the main entrance for all of the mail coaches travelling to and from the city. The carvings on a clock in the main reception were carved by Spanish prisoners in Dartmoor Jail following the 1588 defeat of the Armada. When you leave The Red Lion Hotel, turn left and then left again onto Catherine Street. Walk down Catherine Street then turn left into Ivy Street. Walk on, cross over at the crossroads and into Trinity Street. About halfway down on the left is the next destination, the Trinity Almshouses. It is about a four minute walk. SALISBURY CITY ALMSHOUSES, TRINITY STREET what3words: burns.robots.riches Cost: Free but please do leave a donation Trinity Hospital is a Grade I listed building, opened as an act of penance by Agnes Bottenham, who you saw in the Doom Painting at St. Thomas’ Church. Opened in the 1370s as a refuge for the sick and needy of the city, the building you see now was a rebuild from 1702. If the large black door in the centre of the building is open, then you can go into the small courtyard, at the far end of which is the Trinity Chapel. The chapel is small but charming, refurnished in 1908, and is free to visit, although they are very grateful for any donations you can give, as it is still a charity for the old and needy of the city. The courtyard has a cast lead sink dating to 1809, doric columns and wooden signs telling of the money bequeathed to the charity over the centuries. Turn right out of Trinity Hospital and walk up New Street (ironically the oldest street in the city). On the corner with Brown Street is the Rai d’Or (what3words: curry.calms.gates), which was once the brothel owned by Agnes Bottenham who bequeathed Trinity Hospital to the city as penance. There is a blue plaque on the wall. You will also pass The New Inn (what3words: choice.matter.tend), which was built around 1380 and is a traditional British pub full of wooden beams. Turn right into the High Street, it is about a five minute walk. OLD GEORGE INN/BOSTON TEA PARTY what3words: rams.risk.races Cost: Free unless you order food or drink What is now a Boston Tea Party coffee shop is a Grade I listed building which dates back to the early 1300s. The Old George Inn, as it once was, was built in 1314, and had some notable guests. Shakespeare and his players stayed there in 1608, on their way to nearby Wilton, and are said to have rehearsed As You Like It in the back garden (sadly now a concrete clad shopping mall). Oliver Cromwell spent a night there in 1645, Samuel Pepys in 1668 and Charles Dickens in 1845, where it is believed he wrote some of Martin Chuzzlewit. Inside is now an eclectic mix of wooden floorboards, leaded windows, beamed ceilings and comfortable sofas. As you leave Boston Tea Party, have a quick look at the clock over Waterstones next door. Often missed by many visitors, this vibrant clock is actually a WH Smith clock, as WH Smith used to own these premises from 1924. The weathervane is of a newspaper boy and the numbers are replaced by the letters WH Smith. Now walk back on yourself up the High Street, towards the High Street gate and the Cathedral. SALISBURY HIGH STREET Mitre House what3words: pepper.hero.cried As you approach the gate, you will notice a building on the corner which has a bishop’s mitre painted on the side. This is Mitre House, said to be the site of the first house built in Salisbury and is where Bishop Richard Poore lodged to oversee the building of the cathedral. Although now a clothes shop, it is still also used for its original purpose of being the location where a new Bishop of the city will put on his robes. Traditionally, new bishops dismount from their horse in nearby Bishopdown, hence the name, and walk into the city as pilgrims. They then put on their robes in Mitre House, before entering the Close. The Ram what3words: pigs.lend.quest As you get closer to the gate, you will see the shop on the left hand side of it has a model of a ram above the door. This dates from the early 20th century, when the shop was used for Stonehenge Woollen Industries, a charitable organisation aimed at revitalising the rural woollen trade. The ram, a traditional breed of Wiltshire Horn, fell into a state of disrepair over the years and the one you see today was put there in 2015 by the Salisbury Civic Society. The High Street Gate (North Gate) what3words: state.slime.picked The High Street Gate was built between 1327 and 1342 and housed the lock up for those convicted of misdeeds within the Cathedral Close. A portcullis used to be lowered every night to lock the gate, which has since been removed, but the gates are still locked between 11pm and 6am. Next to the gate is a porters lodge, the position of Porter to the Close being much sought after by nobles during the middle ages. The north side has the Stuart Royal coat of arms, which were added in the 17th century between two stone-mullioned windows and the south side has a statue of Edward VII which was added in 1902 and which replaced a statue of Charles I who had replaced a statue of Henry III. The College of Matrons what3words: alien.perky.pumps After you walk through the gate, on your left is the Grade I listed College of Matrons. Erected in 1682 as almshouses for the widows of clergy and paid for by Bishop Seth Ward, it is still part of Salisbury almshouses. The College was built by a local Harnham builder and it is rumoured that Christopher Wren had some involvement in the style. Above the door is a cartouche in Latin, the translation of which is “Seth, Bishop of Salisbury, most humbly dedicated this College of Matrons to God, most good, most great, in the year of our Lord 1682”. Above that is the coat of arms of Charles II, flanked by scrolls and drapes of fruit. A lead domed roof lantern topped by a golden ball sits on top of the roof along with six chimney stacks. The brick wall and gates are Grade I listed separately to the rest of the building. The cathedral is ahead of you (what3words: zooms.caring.late). Entry to the cathedral is £8 per adult, which gives you access for a whole year. If you don’t want to spend any money at all, you can still go in through the main entrance, walk around the Cloisters and see the Magna Carta without any charge. Read about a visit to the Cathedral >> The Cathedral Close is a beautiful place for a leisurely walk, with some incredible old buildings, or you can just sit on the lawns and admire the views. Read about a self-guided walk around Salisbury's Cathedral Close >> If you have the time and the weather is good, then a visit to Salisbury’s Water Meadows is a must. Go back out of the High Street Gate, turn left onto Crane Street and walk across the bridge over the River Avon, turning left after the car park, into Queen Elizabeth Gardens. ‘Lizzie Gardens’ as it is known to the locals, was opened in the 1960s to commemorate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. Read more about Lizzie Gardens >> With famous views over the cathedral, from here you can access the Town Path, which takes you along the Harnham Water Meadows. It is a lovely place to walk and has a playpark, free musical events in the summer and prime paddling spots for hot days. Walk through the park to reach the entrance to the Town Path and the Water Meadows. HARNHAM WATER MEADOWS what3words: custom.mint.limit Cost: Free The best known meadow irrigation system in England, the 84 acres of beautiful water meadows once provided the grazing, hay, and craft materials that helped make Salisbury a prosperous market town. Now designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest, the meadows are a thriving site for wildlife within the city. From the walk alongside them, you can see one of the most iconic views of the cathedral, as painted by John Constable in his famous 1831 painting, ‘Salisbury Cathedral from the Water Meadows’. At the end of the Town Path is a pub called The Old Mill, a Grade I listed, 15th century building, with some features which date back to 1250. Originally an ecclesiastical building, it was transformed in the 16th century to be the largest paper mill in the country. It is the perfect place to end your day of exploring Salisbury, with a restaurant in the oldest part of the building, a riverside garden and a large mill pond. If you have the time, why not try this? Constable and Salisbury - The Harnham and Water Meadows Trail >> VISITING SALISBURY See our Salisbury City Guide for details on how to get to Salisbury, where to stay, eat, shop and other places to visit in the area.

  • QUEEN ELIZABETH GARDENS, SALISBURY

    One of the major parks in Salisbury, this riverside park has beautiful views of Salisbury Cathedral and the River Avon, a good play area, plenty of places to relax and some great paddling spots. Opened in 1960 to commemorate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II seven years earlier, 'Lizzie Gardens' as it is know to the locals, is the park which is closest to the town centre. Flanked on two sides by the River Avon and with a shallow tributary running through it, the park is dominated by the presence of water. Paths traverse the park and around the water's edge, and at one corner there is a bridge across the river to 'Town Path', which leads people through the ancient water meadows to the suburb of Harnham. From here you can see Salisbury Cathedral and the view painted by John Constable in one of his most famous paintings. It is possible to see kingfishers and other river wildlife swooping around the area, or a family of swans gliding by on the still river. A central island surrounded by shallow water is the perfect place for children to paddle in the summer, and the water is often filled with them splashing around with nets and balls, while parents picnic on the grass verges. Summer also sees Music In The Park - regular events where people can just turn up and enjoy free music in the sunshine, as well as Park Yoga - free yoga sessions on Sunday mornings. There is also a really good play park for children, with a wide variety of equipment, including some which is accessible for wheelchair users. Lizzie Gardens made international headlines in 2018, when Salisbury was at the centre of the Novichok poisoning scandal. It is thought that the spies mixed the poison in the facilities here, and is where the poison was found in a perfume bottle and given to a local resident, who tragically died. The park was cordoned off from the public for several months, and had to be fully decontaminated before it was opened up again. Nowadays though, it is just a lovely park for a peaceful stroll, or to rest on one of the many benches overlooking the river. It's not just a park for the summer though, as autumn sees the leaves changing colours, spring has a plethora of bulbs and in the winter, it makes an excellent spot for snowmen and snowball fights. VISITING QUEEN ELIZABETH GARDENS How to get to Queen Elizabeth Gardens Postcode: SP2 7TD what3words: There are several ways in, the main entrance is at shop.dimes.factories Public Transport: The park is within an easy walking distance of the train stations. The nearest bus stop is the Fisherton Street Clock Tower stop, with a short walk by the river to the park. Parking: If you are driving, which I don't really recommend in Salisbury, there is paid parking right next to the park at the Lush House Car Park. When is the Queen Elizabeth Gardens open? The park is open all hours, all year round. How much does it cost to visit Queen Elizabeth Gardens? The park is free to visit. Are there any facilities at Queen Elizabeth Gardens? There are public loos and often an ice cream van. Shops, cafes and restaurants are a short walk away. See our Salisbury City Guide for details on how to get to Salisbury, locally owned accommodation, restaurants and shops, further places to visit and things to do.

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