17 THINGS TO SEE OR DO AT WATERLOO STATION, LONDON
Waterloo Station in London is the busiest rail hub in the UK, with over a quarter of a million people using the station each day. Perhaps you are stuck there now - waiting for a train, with a few hours to kill? The station itself has an interesting history, but there is also a lot to see within a ten-minute walks of the station. So rather than hanging around overpriced cafes, why not check out these 17 sights that are sure to keep anyone entertained while waiting for a train.
HISTORY OF WATERLOO STATION
Built in 1848 in the Lambeth borough of London, Waterloo Station was originally planned as a station on the line into central London, rather than a terminus. It replaced the earlier Nine Elms Station, which had seen a sizable increase in travellers from the south and south west of England.
An Act of Parliament in July 1845 led to its creation, with the demolition of over 700 houses to make way for the new station, named after nearby Waterloo Bridge. The intention was to continue the lines into central London, something which was cancelled due to financial constraints in 1847.
Extra tracks, platforms and ticket offices were added on in a piecemeal fashion, with the station becoming increasingly confusing for visitors. Of its 16 platforms, only 10 were numbered, some of which were duplicated.
In 1898, an underground station was built, and it was accepted that Waterloo would remain as a terminus. By 1900, more land was bought and work began on the ‘Great Transformation’. Work continued throughout World War I and the new station was formally opened in 1922 by Queen Mary.
The station has continued to develop over the years to meet the needs of an ever changing society and is now the largest and busiest station in the UK, with over 100 million people using it each year.
If you’re worried about missing train updates while you are exploring, this National Rail Live Departure Board updates constantly with train times and platforms for trains from Waterloo. so you can check it from your phone whilst on the move.
If you have luggage – leave it at Excess Baggage, which you will find at the SouthBank exit (6). They are open from Monday to Sunday, 7am - 11pm.
THINGS TO DO AT WATERLOO STATION
1. Victory Arch
The main entrance to Waterloo Station, known as Victory Arch, is at Exit 3 if you are already inside the station, or on Cab Road if you are outside it. Grade II listed and built of Portland Stone, it was carved by Charles Whiffen in 1919-1922, with input from staff of the London South West Railway as a memorial to the 585 staff who lost their lives in World War I. It is topped by a sculpture of Britannia holding the torch of liberty, under which is a clock in a sunburst.
On either side are two sculptural groups, one dated 1914 and dedicated to Bellona, the Roman goddess of war. On the other side is a group dedicated to Peace and dated 1918.
The archway is inscribed with ‘Dedicated to the employees of the Company who fell in the war’ and medallions around the arch name Belgium, Italy, Dardenelles, France, Egypt, Mesopotamia and the North Sea. Bronze plaques inside the arch list the names of the fallen employees.
It is best to try to ignore everything else around this grand entrance, as the passage of time has not been kind to the area.
2. Battle of Waterloo Memorial
This memorial to the Battle of Waterloo is a relatively recent addition and has a replica of the Waterloo Campaign Medal
If you walk up the stairs inside the station to the balcony area, a relatively recent addition from 2012, you will find a memorial to the soldiers who died in the Battle of Waterloo.
It was unveiled in 2015 to mark 200 years since the battle, in a ceremony led by the 9th Duke of Wellington and attended by descendents of those who fought and died in the battle.
The memorial is an enlarged replica of the Waterloo Campaign Medal, the first such to be given to every soldier at the battle, irrespective of their rank. It was also the first campaign medal to be issued to next of kin of those who had died.
It depicts Victory sitting on a plinth, with the word ‘Wellington’ inscribed above and ‘Waterloo, June 18, 1815’ below. Beneath the medal are the words of Arthur Wellesley, the first Duke of Wellington;
‘My heart is broken by the terrible loss I have sustained in my old friends and companions and my poor soldiers. Believe me, nothing except a battle lost can be half so melancholy as a battle won.’
Most people walk past the memorial without even noticing, but it is worth seeking it out.
3. Original Archway
Few people notice this archway which is now hidden by the retail balcony, but which is a colourful early 20th century memory of the now defunct London South West Railway.
A stained glass window of the LSWR crest is surrounded by inscribed banners to locations served by the original London and South West Railway and which include (left) Middlesex, Surrey, Bucks [Buckinghamshire], Berks[hire], Sussex, Isle-Wight; (right) Hants [Hampshire], Wilts[hire], Dorset, Somerset, Devon, and Cornwall.
It is interesting to note that by the time Waterloo was being built, the LSWR had actually ceased to exist, but the window and design were still incorporated into the finished building.
4. The Waterloo Clock
Striking and prominent, there are few more famous clocks in London than this one.
Best viewed from the balcony, the Waterloo Clock is perhaps the most famous symbol of the station and “under the Waterloo Clock” one of the most famous meeting places in London.
This four sided clock, with each side over 5 feet, has hung above the concourse since the early 1920s and was built by Gents of Leicester, a company which had began trading in 1872 and which had made electric clocks for railway stations around the world.
The area underneath the clock is now marked with a huge blue spot telling you it is the area under the clock, which takes away some of the charm, but it is still worth a visit.
5. The Sunbathers
This is a recent addition to Waterloo Station, just along from the Battle of Waterloo Memorial. Installed in 2020 , it was actually created for the Festival of Britain in 1951, by artist Peter Laszlo Peri.
It had been assumed lost forever after the Festival, until an appeal was put out to find missing artworks, and someone recognised it as being in terrible state in the garden of the Clarendon Hotel in London.
Fundraising followed to repair it, and for three years it was on display in the Royal Festival Hall. It has now been moved to Waterloo.
6. The Windrush Memorial
The most recent addition to Waterloo, this memorial was unveiled in June 2022 by the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.
Designed by Jamaican artist Basil Watson, it depicts a man, woman and child dressed in their Sunday best standing atop a pile of suitcases. Each person is looking in a different direction but they are all holding hands, and represents the arrival of that generation in the UK with their hopes for their future. The Windrush generation are those who arrived in the UK from the Caribbean between 1948 - 1971, answering the call for more labour to help out the British after World War II.
You can find the monument just inside the main entrance to Waterloo Station, and read more about the monument here >>
THINGS TO DO IN A 2 – 5 MINUTE WALK FROM WATERLOO STATION
7. St. Johns Church, Waterloo (2 minute walk)
Currently closed for renovations until Summer 2022 although the garden is open
Built in 1824 by architect Francis Octavius Bedford, this church was built in a Greek style inspired by his love of Greek scholarship. Bombed in 1940 and left exposed for ten years, the restoration was completed in 1950 and the church rededicated as the Festival of Britain church.
Most of the Victorian features are long gone and the interior is now a spacious, open rectangular room with large windows and a simple balcony. The reredos is replaced by 1950s murals and the overall impression is one of light and simplicity.
The church has a large graveyard which has won multiple awards as a wildlife sanctuary and green space, filled with plants to counteract the pollution which comes from Waterloo Station.
With a thriving community, the church is open to visitors and the graveyard a small sanctuary of peace and nature in the busy city.
8. The Old Vic Theatre, Lambeth (3 minute walk)
Founded in 1818 as the Royal Coburg Theatre under the patronage of Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg, unfortunately Charlotte died in 1817 and Leopold left England to become King of the Belgians.
The lease was taken over in 1833 and a new patron sought, with the Duchess of Kent, Princess Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, the mother of the future Queen Victoria approached.
By 1835, the theatre was known as The Victoria Theatre. Rebuilt inside in 1871 and renamed The Royal Victoria Palace, The ‘Old Vic’ has been in use since then. The building is Grade II listed due to its architectural quality and rarity.
An all day, late-night bar is in the basement and open to all, including non-ticket holders. If you know you will have time to spare in advance, you can always book a behind the scenes tour if they are running, which will cover its 200 years of history and culture.
9. Roupell Street Conservation Area, Waterloo (5 minute walk)
Roupell Street and the streets around it are the best preserved area of modest Georgian housing in London, and a visit is like stepping back in time to the 19th century. Originally marsh land, the area was developed by John Palmer Roupell, a gold refiner, who developed the land for artisan workers, building modest two storey terraced housing.
In 1829, a year before completion, one of the houses burnt down when the workmen’s pot used for making the pitching boiled over and set some straw and wood alight. The properties weren’t insured as they were unfinished, and the remaining properties were swiftly insured. Metal insurance plates were fixed to the outsides, many of which can still be seen today.
The area was managed by a single landlord until the 1970s when the houses were sold off, but fortunately in 1976 the properties were listed and made a conservation area. It is a lovely place to visit, really pretty, and is surprisingly peaceful, something I was slightly astonished by.
The King’s Arms pub is still there, and is as close to a Victorian pub as you can find today, albeit serving Thai food instead of traditional British fare.
The street has featured in numerous TV series and films and is said to be one of the most filmed places in London.
10. Leake Street Arches, Waterloo (5 minute walk)
Colourful, vibrant and ever changing, the Leake Street arches are also known as The Banksy Tunnel
This tunnel is a fascinating place for a walk, and is actually underneath Waterloo Station. It is named after Dr. John Leake, an 18th century doctor who founded the General Lying-In Hospital (one of the country’s first maternity hospitals), nearby.
The arches were created with the construction of Waterloo and for many years were used by wine and whisky merchants. Until 2008 the road was used for vehicular access as it was owned by Eurostar, but when they moved to St. Pancras Station instead, ownership of the tunnel passed to Network Rail, who made it pedestrian only.
In May 2008, the elusive street artist Banksy held a Cans Festival in the tunnel, inviting graffiti artists from around the world to turn this once drab, brick space into an onslaught of colour.
Safe to explore during the day, although avoid it after dark, you can walk the length of the tunnel and see artists at work producing amazingly skilled street art. The art changes almost daily so there is always something new to see.
Various bars and clubs lead off the tunnel, including one called ‘Draughts’ where you can play board games if your train is delayed for ages.
THINGS TO DO IN A 7 – 11 MINUTE WALK FROM WATERLOO STATION
11. Southbank Book Market, Southbank Centre (7 minute walk)
Hidden underneath Waterloo Bridge, the Southbank Book Centre Market is the only outdoor book market which is open daily whatever the weather. Selling antique and second hand books from classic to contemporary, as well as maps and prints, this is the perfect place to while away some time browsing.
12. Southbank Food Market
If you are at Waterloo over a weekend, then the Southbank Centre Food Market is also on and ideal for any foodies.
With a huge variety of stalls and positively buzzing with people by the evening, it is a great place to try different flavours as you wander along the River Thames, or find a shady place to sit and 'people watch' while listening to whichever street performer is playing.
There are all sorts of bars, BBQ's, cuisine from every country as well as classic English fare - I particularly recommend the vegetarian hot dogs. Have your meal here whilst waiting for your train home and avoid the standard, overpriced Waterloo food for a taste of something different with a busy, joyful vibe. There's no need to get involved, just sit back and watch the world pass by as you eat.